Duster won't start. Tracing fuel pressure, and no fuel runs out at the fuel filter when I unhook it and turn the engine over. Does not seem to be any electric power to the pump...I get 12 volts there for the blink of an eye when voltage checking it, then nothing. From there my Chiltons help is zilch. Is there some kind of emergency fuel pump circut breaker on this car? Fuse box does not list which fuse would go to FP, so wonder if it is on the fuse block or is there a fuse someplace else? I have no wiring diagram to work with, (willhit het library and see what thye have this weekend) so any other help in that direction would be great.
Factory Service Manual, the one printed by Chrysler. Only way to go.
Your "12v for the blink of an eye" suggests the fuel pump control circuit (SMEC, AIS relay, fuel pump relay and associated fusible links) is working correctly, but the SMEC is for some reason disabling the fuel pump. The most common reason for this is that it's not seeing a signal pulse from the distributor pickup. To check, disconnect the battery for two minutes, reconnect, crank the engine for 5 seconds, turn the key "off", then pull the flash codes.
To check the computer codes:
With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, leaving it "ON". Do not go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.
Watch the "Check Engine" light. It will turn on, then go off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored. For instance, if it flashes:
Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a
55 (five and five). 12 means "start of codes", 55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself, "No codes stored". Check the codes and report what you find. If you get a code 11, the SMEC isn't seeing the distributor.
The most common reasons why the SMEC wouldn't see the distributor are, in order from most to least likely:
-Dead hall effect pickup in the distributor
-Broken timing belt (distributor not turning)
-Broken intermediate shaft (distributor and oil pump not turning)
To eliminate the 2nd and 3rd on this list, remove the distributor cap and observe the rotor while cranking the engine. If it turns, the timing belt and intermediate shaft are intact. This doesn't necessarily mean the timing belt is in acceptable condition; it could be loose and tattered and maybe even jumped time, but it's present and turning the intermediate shaft which is turning the distributor.
Daniel Stern? The same Daniel Stern that gave me the directions on how to wire in a regular voltage regulator into my '86 Dodge Daytona about
6 months ago? FYI, it's still running good as my normal day-to-day driver.
I Checked the codes, and came up with 12 and 55.
Distributor turns. so I went back and double checked all my earlier work. In checking the voltage at the fuel pump, it has the split second of voltage when I put the key to run, but if I crank the engine the voltage stayed up about 10.8v. I still have the fuel filter off, and nothing was coming out so I would assume now that the pump is dead. Replacement pump is pushing $200, is there any other way I can test the pump other than pulling it out and putting 12v directly to it? Where the plug is in the car prevents me from doing it unless I drop the tank, unless I want some possible bad connections and sparks flying. No fun there! The thought of working on all those rusted bolts and fuel fittings while laying on the garage cement is not a pleasent thought. :(
Terrific, but don't tell "maxpower" a/k/a "damnnickname" a/k/a Glenn Beasley. He claims this fix doesn't work.
Assuming you checked the codes *after* disconnecting the battery for 2 minutes, reconnecting it and attempting to start the vehicle, this tells us the SBEC sees your distributor.
Good...
...which is normal line voltage with the starter operating. Sounds like your fuel pump control circuit is in OK shape.
It's certainly beginning to look that way.
...but you get a new pump, seal, and float/pickup assembly.
Well, you could replace the pump with a new one, and then when the car starts you'll know it was the old one...
Yep, dropping the tank will be necessary.
If it is sufficiently unpleasant, you may want to farm this one out.
No, I'll do it, just a pain when everything is corroded up so bad. I also had a friend who's opinion I respect tell me to make sure the fuel pump relay is working. He said he has had relays have enough contact to register good voltage, but when you put a load on them they cannot sustain it enough to run the pump. So before I drop the tank I may wiggle wires just a bit. He thought the relay would be under/behind the glove box. Would that be right?
He wasn't talking specific to the Duster, just that he has had that happen to him in the past with other vehicles. Do you know where those relays would be, or which one is specific to the fuel pump? And does his theory sound plausable to you?
By the way, if it does turn out to be the fuel pump, and it's an in-tank pump, a word to the wise - do not run the gas tank down to empty then refill it. You should refill the tank every time it goes under 50%. The reason is the gasoline cools the pump for in-tank fuel pump.
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