96 GRAND CARAVAN - SERVICE ENG SOON

It means the engine control computer has detected an error in a sensor or other system component. Typically, you can keep driving until you can get to a dealer. You can also use the key to trigger the computer to display the error code(s) by flashing the check engine light. Been a while since I did this, but I think you switch the key on-off-on-off-on and then watch the light. It will flash with short and long delays between pulses. Count the flashes with short delays between them as each digit and start a new digit after each long pause. If memory serves, a code of 12 will always be displayed at the start and a code of

55 at the end. All of the two digit numbers in between constitute the problem codes. Post what you find here and someone will tell you what it means (I can pull my service manual as I have a 96 also).

Matt

Thanks for the info Matt, will check the codes in the morning and post them here.

Bill

Morning Matt

I got the codes out, they were 12 , 32 , and 55. I guess from what you said the number 32 is the problem code here. Thanks again and hopefully someone will have the answer

CHEERS Bill

From the book I have here which only goes to 1995

12 direct battery input to controller disconnected within the last 50 to 100 ignition key-ons

32 an open or shorted condition detected in the EGR solenoid circuit or required change in air/fuel ratio not detected during diagnostic test

they could be wrong but it might be a start on stuff to check

REMOVE the NOCRAP in my address to reply.

I also have 96 Grand Caravan (3.8, 71K miles), with a SES light that just came on. I have pulled the following codes: 12, 32, 55. I think I remember reading that the 12 is battery disconnected and the 55 is end of codes. Can someone tell me what the 32 is? Please correct me on the

12 & 55 if I'm incorrect on those. This did happen soon after my wife filled it with gas, but it didn't seem like the cap was actually loose. I asked her if she turns it until it clicks, but you can imagine the response I got to that. Thanks.

Thanks for the reply Len. I think what I may try first after seeing what these codes mean is to just disconnect the battery for a few minutes and see if the fault conditions go away after I reconnect it. This may be just a glitch in the computer. If that don't do it than I guess I'll be off to the dealer tomorrow. Will let you know how I make out here, going out to give it a try now

Bill

I just checked my 96 manual and it confirms what you said. 32 indicates an EGR malfunction of some sort.

Matt

Code 32 is in fact an EGR system fault. From the SES core you can not tell if it is the valve itself or the solenoid control circuit. A proper scan tool can distinguish the code further to tell that. However, It is also a fairly simple diagnostic procedure to find out which it is. EGR is one of the more common failures. It likely is a real fault. you will likely find that by disconnecting the battery to clear the code, It will return in a short time. The computer will have to run all its tests again which can take a few full drive cycles (full cold engine to fully warmed engine) before it reappears. If there is a hard fault in the system, the light could come back on, on the first cycle. EGR system is usually a fairly easy diagnostic and fix.

As far as driving it, you may notice a decrease in gas mileage, and certainly the emissions will be way out of whack, over limits. But you won't harm anything any further. You are just not recycling any exhaust gases.

Mike is this something that I could fix myself or does it have to go to the shop. I normally do all my own repairs but have not come up against this fault before. I'm not afraid to tackel it but by the same token don't want to beat my head against the wall. I suppose that even if I resolve the problem I will still need to go to the dealer to have the fault bit reset in the computer. When I got my first Caravan I bought a shop manual to go with it. I guess its time I spent some money and got another shop manual for this one.

Bill

Replacing an EGR is usually pretty easy. Hard part is getting to it. A manual is a good idea as it will help you confirm that it is really the EGR that is at fault. I replaced one on my Acclaim a few years ago and it was a 15 minute job. The van has a tighter engine compartment so it may be a little more work.

Matt

Thanks Matt Will get on the phone in the morning and see if I can locate a kit at the dealer here. I have a 3.3 in the van and had to do the spark plugs this spring, that was a bit of a tight spot. Especially the 2nd plug in from the left.

Thanks again

You might also want to consider a $25 year's subscription to AllData for your vehicle

With that you will get on-line access to the FSM information (i.e., right out of the FSM - not questionable aftermarket-quality info.) plus all TSB's for your vehicle (renewal and any additional vehicles subscription are at $15 each per year). Unless you're constantly working on your vehicle (hard copy is a litle more convenient for flipping thru and finding info. as you are working) this might be a good way to go (plus, as I said, you get access to all TSB's).

(I have no connection with AllData other than having subscriptions for two of my vehicles and seeing their product as being a good alternative to the hardcopy FSM, and a source of TSB's.)

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

will9321 wrote:

It's not too bad to change. A few things to look at/for. EGR solenoid sits on top of intake manifold. Make sure electrical connection is good. Check Vacuum hose from solenoid to EGR valve, near throttle body. Check the EGR intake tube for obvious signs of damage or leaks. Runs from EGR valve to exhaust manifold right near O2 sensor. There is gaskets on both ends of this tube, as well as under the EGR valve.

You can see if the ERG valve itself is stuck if you have the ability to apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve. 2-3.5 inches of vacuum should cause EGR valve to open - visually seen by a piston pin valve stem extending - it has a groove on it to see relative movement. You can try applying vacuum directly to the EGR valve with the engine idling. RPM should drop, and may even stall as EGR gases are introduced at idle. This would confirm valve stuck or not stuck.

Evening Mike

Was out today driving around and my wife noticed that the light had gone out. Its been on for the last three days but for no reason it is now out so I'll wait and see what happens. If it comes back I'm going to change the EGR unit right away. I have a vaccum pump and calibration guage on the ship so I can get that to test the unit. Called the dealer today and they want $70.00 for them up here so thats not bad. Thanks again for all the help.

Bill

OK, took it to Auto Zone and had them scan it. P0401 is the only code. Is replacing the EGR valve assembly the right course of action? Thanks.

Sounds like either a loose connection or a chafe on one of the wires that can wiggle around and cause the solenoid to open when it should be closed or not open when signalled, or a valve that's getting sticky, got stuck and has now freed itself. It obviously passed a test on the last check cycle. I suppose it could also still be a vacuum hose that is getting near its death and if flexed just right will leak or not.

Check out those few easy things before you spend the $70. (Make sure it comes with all the new gaskets)

Good Luck.

P0401 means that when the EGR was signalled to open, there was no change in fuel/air ratio. You are still stuck at not knowing if the vacuum was unable to open that valve (vacuum leak) or if the EGR valve is stuck or has an internal diaphragm leak. If possible you need to try and operate the EGR valve with an alternate vacuum source and watch to see if the valve is able to move. Have a look around at the system as per the notes in the other half of this thread. The codes are good, but not that good - some troubleshooting is still required.