96 LHS problem

Glenn, Thanks for the reply. Yes, as the car was restarted and idled(forced @ approx. 2500 rpm), the check engine light was on, and it would blink off momentarily when the engine would hesitate. As to the convertor being red hot, it was actually the exhaust pipe from the block at the bend as it goes horizontal to the convertor that I saw as being red. As I knew that wasn't right, I jumped back up to shut the car off, missing the convertor color. I might add that it was dark out when all this happened, and I don't know if both exhausts pipes from the block were red because I was looking from the drivers side. I just went out to check it in the light and the exhaust seems to be a duel exhaust into a single convertor(located in relation to where the console inside the car is located) to a single pipe that splits back into a duel tail pipe. Is the Heet I dumped in there a problem? The engine did seem to be running lean; kind of pingy. I attributed that to the water/convertor issue.

Glenn, Here's an update. I drove the car to town (5mi+-) to some help. Zero power, about 20/30 mph tops with lots of engine drop out/babying. It died about 5 times, but I made it. I got the 2 into 1convertor off and found it is not blocked; at all. What I did find was that the right bank exhaust is COLD. Using a digital thermometer, the left exhaust, after the #1convertor, is 390 degrees. The right exhaust is 81 degrees. It also seems to be sucking air. To put my hand over the pipe causes a vacuum. The left side is untouchable as expected. I found no water in the gas either. What do you think now? HELP!! jwald

Mic, I don't know. We do not have a code reader. Sorry. I'm thinking that it's something electrical because the plugs don't seem to be firing( the exhuast on that side is cold ), or valves, or timing. Hell, I don't know. I run a laundry for a living. Thanks.

I think you should at least have someone check the cam timing to see if the right side cam has jumped time.

No code reader required and if the right side cam has jumped, it won't show up in the PCM since the camshaft position sensor is on the other side.

Ok if the vehicle is drivable i would not suspect a timing belt issure, by the exhaust being cooler on one side then the other i would suspect maybe a cylinder misfire or even 2 on the same side, thats why it is colder,The plug(s) possibly arent firing causing it to run cooler and the raw gas is also cooling the manifold, i new it wasnt water in the system, you need to check to see what fault codes are in ther memory..once again, when was the last time this engine had plugs and wires installed????

Ok if the vehicle is drivable i would not suspect a timing belt issure, by the exhaust being cooler on one side then the other i would suspect maybe a cylinder misfire or even 2 on the same side, thats why it is colder,The plug(s) possibly arent firing causing it to run cooler and the raw gas is also cooling the manifold, i new it wasnt water in the system, you need to check to see what fault codes are in ther memory..once again, when was the last time this engine had plugs and wires installed????

Ok if the vehicle is drivable i would not suspect a timing belt issue, by the exhaust being cooler on one side then the other i would suspect maybe a cylinder misfire or even 2 on the same side, thats why it is colder,The plug(s) possibly arent firing causing it to run cooler and the raw gas is also cooling the manifold, i new it wasnt water in the system, you need to check to see what fault codes are in ther memory..once again, when was the last time this engine had plugs and wires installed????Having PC issues here now, maybe be a multiple post coming

Cycle the ignition key 3 times (without starting) and leave in the "on" position, then count flashes on the "check engine" light. Those are your codes. The procedure is detailed on allpar.com.

It's fixed. Timing belt was bad and it jumped out of time. Only problem is that I think she got screwed on the repair bill. As she was out of town at the time of the breakdown, I think the guy took advantage of her and replaced a bunch of stuff that didn't seem to be needed. In addition to the belt, she got a water pump, thermostat/gasket, a couple of pulleys, plugs, oil change, and something else. With labor.... $790.

Sounds to me like your sister got a good thorough job done with all the bases covered.

At 133K miles, you should ask her when the timing belt was last changed, and explain to her that this is a maintenance item that needs doing at periodic intervals.

On the 3.5, it makes sense to change the water pump and timing belt tensioner pulley while you're in there, and "getting in there" is most of the labor cost. Since you have to drain the cooling system, a thermostat makes sense too. A tensioner and water pump might add around $150 to the total parts cost, almost nothing to the labor cost. OTOH, if you put it all back together and the water pump were to fail in 5000 miles, you'd be paying several hundred in labor (again) PLUS the ~150 for the parts.

The oil change and any other pulleys besides the timing-belt tensioner would be a rip off unless they were visibly damaged for some reason.

I think you did great. The water pump is a must have. I can't tell what pulleys were replaced, but that might have been warranted as well. There are several idlers on that engine and they don't last forever, not by a long shot. The thermostat, well, that was probably just gold plating, but of course they're very cheap.

Thanks for all the help guys. Upon further reflection, I suppose the bill was in the ball park after all. I/We were just reacting to the shock of the repair costs. She's happy to have her car, I'm happy to not have her car. It all works out.