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97 Dodge Intrepid - hard shifts and high idle problems

I've been following this group for awhile, but this is the first time I've posted. Your answers to previous questions have been very insightful into other issues I've had, so hopefully you can help me here.

So I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid with 139k miles on it. It has the 3.5L engine and Autostick. Recently, it has developed a handful of problems, and I am unsure if they are related. The main issue is that the car seems to shift very hard. Specifically when shifting down from

2nd to 1st at low speeds and when shifting up from 3rd to 4th around 45 mph. (This is with the transmission in drive, not autostick). It is really noticeable at low speeds.

Some background information:

I've had the car since 2000 when it had 70k miles on. No major problems to report, mostly maintenance issues. It has had its oil changed every 3k miles, for those interested.

About 2 months ago, the check engine light came on. Code 32 - EGR valve. Following the instructions in my Haynes manual, I checked my EGR valve and associated components. Engine bogs down as vacuum is applied directly to valve. Vacuum lines seem ok. After taking putting the parts removed back on and resetting the computer (by unhooking the battery), the check engine light went out, but now the car idles high. It used to idle around 600 rpm in park. Now its more like 1100 rpm. Hot or cold does not seem to matter. Additionally, after about 3 days of driving, the check engine light came back on and the car idles high. Obviously, this seems to stress the engine more when shifting from Park into gear.

Additionally, since the EGR test, it occasionally requires a second crank to get it started when it's cold. Unsure if this is something related or older car getting more mileage/older battery/etc.

From perusing this group, I've found that a common remedy is to

change the transmission fluid. It has not been done within the past

30k miles, so definitely needs to be done regardless. However, knowing the Intrepid's somewhat well documented tranny problems, I don't want to have just the fluid changed if that is not the problem.

So, has anybody seen a similar set of conditions? This feels like something that is beyond my limited skills/required tools, so I'm considering taking it to a shop. What should I expect them to tell me? Is there anything I'm overlooking here? And finally, are these likely related?

Thanks for your help, Bryan

Sorry for the long post, but there seems to be lots of information that should be conveyed.

Reply to
Bryan
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Bryan,

The Code 32 is most likely a bad EGR valve. I just replaced one on my son's

1996 with the 3.5 over the weekend. It is not too bad a job, although its location is at the rear of the engine and the space there is tight. The EGR part you will likely need is found at:
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came with the exhaust manifold/metal gasket and 2 new bolts. To do thejob right, you will also need to replace the EGR tube EGR gasket as well asthe two EGR tube to intake manifold gaskets too. My son's 1996 had a lot ofcarbon deposits built up that I cleaned out at the openings to the tube andmanifolds. Removing the battery negative cable during the job andre-attaching afterward cleared the code and it once it re-learned the engineit ran very well.

I do not know the cost of having the job done by a dealer or other service shop, but it took us about two hours to remove and re-install, and some of this time was cleaning the tube and manifold openings.

This could be the cause of the engine running rough and at a higher than normal idle although, it could be something else as well since you do not indicate when it was last tuned, PCV valve changed, ignition wires replaced, etc.

On the transmission shifting rough, you also fail to say when you last changed the fluid and filter. I do mine every 30K on all my Chryslers and they all still shift like new.

Good luck.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

Bryan,

Here is a diagram I found of the EGR tube to EGR assembly. Hope it helps you.

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Click on EGR, then select the Image on the right of the screen.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

Bob,

The transmission fluid was changed approx. 45,000 miles ago, so it needs to be done regardless. Additionally, the plugs/wires were changed about 5000 miles ago. The car was not tuned at the time, nor was the PCV valve changed. How do I check to see if the PCV valve is bad?

Thanks, Bryan

Reply to
Bryan

The PCV is very cheap and easy to get to. Just replace it if it has not been done lately since it may be contributing to the EGR issue. And, while you are there, make sure the rubber hose to it isn't cracked or leaking.

On the transmission fluid, I've had good luck with the re-sealable silicone/metal gasket, the genuine MOPAR filter, and ATF+4, all only available from a Chrysler dealer. I order these from Galeana Chrysler's web site in South Carolina and they ship to arrive in about a week and there is no sales tax for me as I am out of that state. The discount and no tax more than covers the shipping. The parts guy there, by the name of Jasper, is great at helping find exactly what you need via email.

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Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

The high idle, need for a re-start, and hard shifting could all be the result of a vacuum leak created by removing and re-installing the EGR. Check all the vacuum tubes as well as all the EGR plumbing itself.

Reply to
Steve

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