99 Intrepid-Routine Brake Job Advice

I live in Toronto, Canada, and am considering having a routine maintenance overhaul of my 1999 Intrepid's ABS 4-wheel disc brakes done in sometime this spring/summer. The odometer has about 80,000 kilometers of mostly city driving and although there is nothing apparently wrong with the brakes, I think it's time for some attention. I plan on taking the car to my Chrysler dealer for this job, since I can't think of anywhere else which might be better in the north-central part of Toronto. Is there anyone here who can give me some valuable tips or information regarding this job so I don't walk into the dealership blind?

Thanks in Advance, Arthur

Reply to
Arthur
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You probably only need fronts and if the pads aren't worn out why replace them. CHeck your manual to see whether the fluid is supposed to be changed. But if the manual does not call for a fluid change and the pads are ok, leave it alone.

Reply to
Art

You will almost certainly be told that you will need new rotors.

If you currently don't feel any sort of brake-pedal-pulsing or steering-wheel-shimmy during braking, then stick to your guns and insist that only your brake pads are to be replaced - not the rotors.

It will take lots of guts. They will probably threaten that it's not safe. That they won't be able to garantee the pads, etc. They will really really want to throw new rotors on - given the age of the car (this is the rust belt we're talking about too).

If you go in there and let them have their way, it will probably set you back $600, maybe $750 after taxes.

If you don't mind getting your hands dirty, you can buy a set of pads for probably $125 at Canada Tire and do it yourself.

Reply to
MoPar Man

I agree - the rears very very seldom give problems - they see very little heat (for warping) and very little wear (at most, at that mileage, you will need pads on the rear - maybe not - but your rear rotors should have lots of life left in them). Definitely the parking brake shoes should need no attention (unless they've been severely abused, in which case you would know it). (In case you don't know, the rears have disk for service brakes and drums for parking brakes built inot the same hunk of metal - separate pads and shoes.)

Take the money you save from not having to replace the rears and get some good parts for the front. I highly recommend Performance Friction Z-Rated? pads.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my adddress with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

My rear rotors did need replacement when I did them a few years back. The reason was not due to the minimum thickness, but was caused by severe pitting which made them unsafe. Make sure you look them over when you replace the pads.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

Find a place that will inspect the system first. If you need front pads I recommend ceramic (far less dust). Also make sure they take apart and clean the caliper pin bushings and pins and put a good synthetic lube on all bushings, pins and pad sliding contact points and on the rear of the pads. Good luck. If new pads on installed break them in right. Take the car out and take several hard stops from 50 mph or so and do not stop with the pedal down until the pads and rotors cool off first. This transfers some of the pad material to the rotor surface and prevents what is often mistake for warped rotors.

Richard.

Richard.

Reply to
Richard

Many thanks for your advice. It's very much appreciated.

Arthur

Reply to
Arthur

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