Fault 0404 comes on with Check Engine Light intermitently (Disappears after
5 key starts). It seems to come on after going over a bump in the road.Reading makes me think there is some carbon inthere. How to get it out? My Haynes makes it look easy but it seems to be in that black hole under the Throttle Body and bin front of the firewall. Anyone taken this out?
Someone here may have an answer, but I would suggest searching and/or posting in the
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
Keith, Here are a couple of threads that may help:
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
You need to find out what the correct fault code is. Whatever Generic scan tool you are using is not giving you the correct fault code. P0404 is an EGR Position Sensor Rationality fault. Not used on that year vehicle.More then likely you have a failed EGR valve. Hitting a bump in the road will not cause this to set. The fault is set when the EGR valve monitor is run.The engine temp has to be greater then 180 degrees, closed loop. the 02 sensor has to be switching and the engine has to be under a load with the throttle open during the test. Once all the conditions are met The EGR is turned off and on , the 02 sensor is monitored for changes in the output signal. If no change or to much change is seen after 3 consecutive test the fault code is set. This vehicle does not have an EGR position sensor.
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
vehicle.More
Are you getting this P0440 in the dash odometer???
(Disappears
Makes no sense, and this is a 98?
I998 Intrepid 2.7. It runs fine but the Check Engine Light comes on from time to time and then goes off. Error code on Odometer is 0404.
Keith I dont know why my software at home led me in the direction I was at. Im at work now looking this up and yes you are right and I stand corrected. There is only one test for that fault code. Assuming that is the only code and no other fault codes..Replace the EGR Valve assembly.as per Diagnostic test Manual Sorry for the confusion.
Glenn beasley Chrysler Tech
While you have the valve off, you might also make sure the EGR passages are not coked-up with accumulations which might erode and keep the valve from closing completely when it needs to. Plus looking at the "seat" area for the pintle to make sure it's not got some accumulation in it and is "clean and such. These things can ensure the correct functioning of the EGR valve as it goes through its "commanded" activities.
I'd recommend a factory Chrysler valve rather than an aftermatked "auto supply" valve. The OEM Chrysler valve will be "vehicle specific" whereas the aftermarket valves are typically "universal" valves which require certain restrictor "washers" being inserted somewhere to customize the valve for the particular engine size range. The ONLY way you can feel sure the emissions and fuel curve will be "as designed" is with the OEM Chrysler valve. It might cost more, BUT it's one of those deals where the additional cost should buy you peace of mind of decreased future issues in this area and knowing that the vehicle engine management system is operating "in parameters" for the best fuel economy and performance and the related emissions performance . . . and no "check engine" lights or codes in that area.
Just some thoughts,
C-BODY
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