Dodge Shadow Engine Quits

A few things:

1) You can check to see if the computer has stored any flash codes all by yourself, at a cost of $0.00.

To check the computer codes:

With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, leaving it "ON". Do not go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.

Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light. It will turn on, then go off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored. For instance, if it flashes:

flash flash flash

flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash

flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash

Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a

55 (five and five). 55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself, "No codes stored. Check the codes and report what you find.

2) The 3-litre V6 tends to dirty-up the throttle body and AIS motor (IAC), which causes stalling, low idle and other driveability quirks. If you cannot remember the last time the throttle body was thoroughly serviced (T-body removed from intake, AIS motor removed from T-body, both parts thoroughly cleaned and reinstalled with new gaskets) you're probably overdue.

3) The 3-litre V6 is also very sensitive to the condition of the crankcase ventillation system. Not just the PCV valve, but the crankcase inlet air filters (both of them) and the hoses and fittings. Any broken, cracked or clogged parts can cause improper idle and stalling. It's very common for this system to be ignored, or at best just the PCV valve replaced. Here again, if you cannot remember the last time the entire crankcase ventillation system was inspected and serviced, you're probably overdue.

4) Of course, you cannot expect the car to run properly unless the wear parts (spark plugs, plug wires, air and fuel filters, distributor cap and rotor) are in good condition, and the ignition timing is set correctly!

DS

Go get yourself a fresh throttle body mounting gasket ($6 or $7 from the dealer) a can of Gumout or similar aerosol carburetor cleaner, some Q-tips and rags and...

o disconnect battery negative o remove the cables from the throttle body (accelerator and cruise) o disconnect the two plugs -- one for the IAC and one for the TPS o remove the throttle body from the intake by loosening the two 13mm nuts o remove the TPS sensor and set it aside (i.e. don't get Gumout on it) o remove the IAC motor o clean the inside of the throttle body until all black gunk is removed from the throttle plate and IAC passage (use Q-tips on the air passage) o clean the pintle on the IAC motor o clean up any remaining gasket material on the intake/throttle body mounting surfaces o reassemble the IAC and TPS to the throttle body o reinstall throttle body, mounting nuts, electrical connections and throttle cables o reconnect battery negative and test drive.

I cleaned mine up while holding it over an old oil drain pain, and used

*plenty* of carburetor cleaner. Do this in a well-ventilated area.

BTW: IAC = AIS = solenoid that controls the amount of air the engine gets when the throttle plate is closed (at idle) TPS = throttle position sensor = tells the engine management computer how far the throttle plate is open.

This will cure the problem 8 or 9 times out of 10 on a 3L that's stalling in the manner you describe.

--Geoff

Not a solenoid. It's a stepper motor.

Absolutely correct. My bad.

--Geoff

My moms got my little 94 3.0 Duster now but it would once in a blue moon do exactly this. Didn't have any other problem with idle speed or drivability at all the rest of the time - it would just die while coasting thru a parking lot or to a stop light, then maybe take a couple of cranks to start it up again and then would be good to go till it did it the next time (about every 10K miles I'd guess). So I never really looked into it further, not a big deal. Other than this the car has been a total gem, never been back to the dealer or had an actual repair other than normal maintenance after 65K and still looks like a brand new car. She LOVES that Duster! Perhaps I should clean the throttle body though....Frenchy

If your mom's '94 has the 5-speed manual or 3-speed automatic, another common cause of "stalls when coming to a stop" is a faulty vehicle speed/distance sensor. They're easy to change.

DS

another

Nope, got the 4A...

I have a '93 Shadow and two times this week it died on the Interstate (ironically the same spot). It had been real cold here lately. The first time I checked the map sensor, and in the line was ice. I cleaned it up, and back on the road. The second time there were no ice crystals, so I walked to Pepboys and bought a map sensor for $35.00. Walked back to stranded car, installed the sensor. It fired up immediately and has had no problems since. I had the EXACT same symptoms as you decribed. Hope that helps.

Shane