Haynes manual instructions

Nedavno Mike Behnke pise:

| Highly doubtful. In fact, probably worse. | | Bite the bullet and get the Factory Service Manual's. | | > I ordered directly from haynes.co.uk manual for both my Audi and | > BMW. Hope they are better than this one from '73 :-)

I probably will.

I think there is some *online* service, don't remember the name offhand, and they have your service manual *online.* You subscribe on an annual fee basis; something like $25 a year or some such. Can't remember the name, but, that is the way I would go.

A -physical- shop manual weights 20 pounds, takes a day to put together into the binders, and is a monstrosity. And unless you're changing out the rod bearings on your pistons or something, it seems to be a *bit* of overkill for most repairs you would make as a hobbyist.

Many repairs require specialized tools, and those are going to cost you a fortune, and you may only use them once.

Sometimes it makes more sense to bring the dang thing into a qualified service shop.

Lg

Alldata. Naw, they don't. They have *THEIR* service manual online. It contains somebody else's digest of information that comes from several sources. Many procedures are reasonably complete, others aren't.

Horseshit. A physical shop manual consists of one or a few volumes, usually totalling about 5 pounds and fitting easily on a bookshelf. How do I know? Well, it might have something to do with the twenty or thirty factory service manuals I own.

If you're trying to replace "rod bearings on your pistons", you've got much bigger problems than what manual to use.

Sometimes it makes more sense to know what the hell you're talking about before you post.

DS

Nedavno Lawrence Glickman pise:

| >| Highly doubtful. In fact, probably worse. | >| | >| Bite the bullet and get the Factory Service Manual's. | >| | >| > I ordered directly from haynes.co.uk manual for both my Audi and | >| > BMW. Hope they are better than this one from '73 :-) | >

| >I probably will. | | I think there is some *online* service, don't remember the name | offhand, and they have your service manual *online.* You subscribe on | an annual fee basis; something like $25 a year or some such. Can't | remember the name, but, that is the way I would go.

It's

Is this really a Bentley manual on-line?How come they (Bentley) do not sell it on CD for my car (1989 Audi 100)? | A -physical- shop manual weights 20 pounds, takes a day to put

I found factory manual on eBay for $105 and shiping was ~ $50 :-)

| Sometimes it makes more sense to bring the dang thing into a qualified | service shop.

Every time I go to my mechanic I am more and more convinced that I should do repair by myself, since where I am there is no such thing as "qualified service shop". And Audi service is to expensive for me.

Yah, thanks. Alldata. I've heard a lot about it but haven't signed up ( yet ).

hmmmmm

So, that is horseshit. I bought a service manual for a car and it came in two cardboard boxes. And it was big, and it was heavy. Maybe my memory of it isn't as clear as it should be, but I remember big, and I remember heavy.

Of course, I'm not the "Hulk" you probably are, I'm just a little guy.

exactly so

blow it out your ass. I've been around longer than you have chump ( with a small c ). And I know more than you do, chump. Maybe not about any one particular thing, but things in general.

Outta my way, sleezeball. BTW, ever finish high school did we?

Lg

DS for damn shame.

Daniel, I own two alldata subscriptions - one for a GM, the other for a Chrysler product. While I am only recently finding that not all their information is complete, I have consistently noticed that what they do have is word-for-word out of the FSM. Figures and schematics are an exact copy of the ones in the FSM.

You've obviously seen different?

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my adddress with the letter 'x')

A computerized shop manual is a PITA to browse through. I'm a computer guy, my machines are in the house. No PC in the garage yet. And I'm not touching my laptop after working on a car - way too greasy.

And a shop manual is pretty much ESSENTIAL for ODB-II diagnostic procedures. Good luck diagnosing a P1039 with a Haynes manual that covers 4 engines over 9 years and 2 nameplates. (93-02 Camaro/Firebird for example.) The diagnostic section for ODB-II is probably thicker than the entire Haynes manual.

Ray

Ray

Really

good point

Well I have a PIM manual that came with my scanner, and OBDII diagnostic CD Roms, BUT, the translations of the codes are built Into the 9145, so after entering your car made, model, and year, you get the proper interpretation of the code right on the display of the

9145. No need for a manual to translate, although I have both the manual and the CD Roms.

Lg

A Panasonic Toughbook is just the ticket in a shop environment. Keep some Go-Jo wipes handy or use latex gloves and they survive quite well.

Or use MOD or AllData, print out the flow charts before you get your hands dirty, then toss the copies when you're finished. (laser printers are under $100 now)

I wonder why more DIYs and mechanics don't bother using latex gloves while they work.

Uh, ok... but does it cover FIXING anything? My TA shop manual has flowcharts for EACH OBD-II code. That section alone is like 500 pages.

And I forgot - I have used my laptop with the car - I bought an AutoTap scantool. I will eventually take one of my old PC's and move it into the garage...

And yes, I can browse/wander through a paper manual much better than a computerized one - especially when you're looking for "something" that doesn't fit nicely into any category. An example - the vacuum lines for the wife's Beretta's A/C. Found the best description for it with the wiring diagrams. Weird, but that's where they put it. Now, if the manual was full-text searchable...

Ray

Allergic to latex would be one reason, for others it's that they make your hands sweat profusely.

allergic reaction

Neil, I'm just a Diy'er, not a pro mechanic.

The original post had to do with Haynes manuals. Once you use a real manual, you'll never go back to a Haynes.

Ray

Understood, still, sometimes stuff shows up on e-bay and there's P2P also.

I've got one Haynes manual that I've had for about 27 years, it's on air cooled VWs, and gets used on the rare occasion that a bug shows up at my door. Needless to say, the content is very frustrating.

Of course not. I only paid a few hundred for it. Now the $5000 jobs the dealers use, yes, that will fix anything. I think you can buy one from Snap On for $3000. The one's the dealers use get updated via satellite dish from company headquarters.

Then again, you're not going to use a scanner all that often on 1 car to justify that kind of expense.

The one I have gives me *clues.* Then I have to do some detective work. How good is it? Haven't had any codes at all so far on the

2003 so I can't tell ya. I almost am tempted to pull the vacuum hose off the egr valve just to throw an MIL code so I can SEE what I get in the way of a diagnosis. Might do that tomorrow.

Well OK, I got what I paid for. Hey it is better than nothing. You know what a dealer charges to READ your codes for you? $75 They may or may not include that in the cost of the repair.

But you have to go with some kind of scan tool on these new cars. You agree with that, right? I mean they're computerized, everything is controlled by electronics, so without some kind of scanner a person wouldn't have a clue where to begin to look. Without some kind of code to give a little direction.

I think AutoTap is a great idea. My only question is how deep does it dig into any 1 make of car. I can only see my engine emission-related things, can't read, for example, transmission fluid temps, toggle solenoids, check this and that.

Well that's the idea of putting it on CD ROM. I have an Encyclopedia on CD ROM, and if I want to search on some idea, I can pull up -every- reference to it, no matter what article it appears in. Can't do that with a book.

So they each have their advantages and disadvantages, books and CD ROM.

Lg

There are nonlatex substitutes available if needed

Only after an hour or so. At that point, one can take a break, and change their gloves.

I've tried latex gloves, usually within 10 minutes, there is sweat pouring out of them...

That hasn't been my experience even being in the operating room for over

3 hours.