How long left is this 3.0 Mitsubishi?

The problem is that I have tried to discuss this with mechanics. About five of them, so far. None have been able to clarify what is wrong. And none, and I mean none, are really enthusiastic about diagnosing this problem. One master mechanics, going by reputation and diplomas on his wall, said he would research this engine but has not gotten back to me.

The best advice I have had is from a seller of both Japanese and American engines who used to rebuild them.

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They are willing to warranty their engines for six months withunlimited mileage. They will test the engine beforehand, like acompression test. They are the middle ground between a salvaged engineand a rebuilt engine in regards to price. I did find one salvagedengine place that is also willing to warranty and tests the engines onthe cars before taking them out - or so they say. They are willing tosell engines with 95,000 miles on them for about $250. That is quiteinexpensive but all I would know is that the engine runs and has awarranty. Fine, so what do I do, send the engine back if it does notwork by Parcel Post? The fellow from usedengine.com told me that a Japanese Mitsubishi cannot work easily in the Voyager because of the differences in the oil flow system. Theoretically, one could drill a 10" hole into the block to retrofit the Japanese engine but the odds of doing this well are fairly remote for even most machine shops since there is no real room for error. In any case, the fellow, one of the owners, used to rebuild engines, so he was quite familiar with this. I would prefer a 1994 engine since the valve guide problems and oil burning were fixed by

1994 with the use of hardened materials and other engineering fixed on the 3.0 liter V6 by Mitsubishi. This compounds the problem a little in finding a good, pre-owned engine.

He said, why not do a exhaust chemical test on the radiator? Takes 10 minutes and easier than checking the pressure in each individual cylinder. No one mentioned that here in this newsgroup or in the dealership or in the independent shops that I went to. A simple definitive test for hydrocarbons in the coolant. Anybody familiar with that here? Is it true it would establish a head gasket problem, as opposed to other problems?

As far as my seeming discombobulated, that is because I go to the experts and I get a run around. Most of them seem to say, run it into the ground and then throw in a new engine.

I am going to look for a mechanic who will try to use his wits and diagnose the vehicle as much as possible without tearing down the heads. That would be worthwhile to me. The cost for tearing down the heads is about what another engine would cost in labor. If the mechanic can convince me to tear down the heads, then that is fine. But again, none of the mechanics I have been to, either Chrysler or independents, seem inclined to even suggest the old-fashioned method of taking the engine apart to fix it because it takes too much time to be worthwhile to the customer. Maybe a shade tree mechanic who is curious.

Okay, you troglodyte, now it's your turn to growl.

Reply to
treeline12345
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The bottom line if you are not a DIY person is you are better off to get out of the vehicle unless you are in love with it and if you are just buy a reman engine from the most trustworthy source and pay the bill. I mean you already have 200K on the vehicle, it has given you your money worth.

What is this 10 inch hole the Japanese engine lacks used for? Where is it located? Those are questions I would be asking. Of course the hole is probably not 10 inches in diameter but rather is probably a 10 inch long oil passage of small diameter. Is engine oil used for some external service on the vehicle? I doubt it. Maybe there is an oil cooler or something, probably you could use a oil filter block off plate and a remote filter pad, which would also enable you to use a pad that takes a much cheaper Ford or Chevy Fram filter.

Probably your heads can be fitted with the later guides. But these are not an engine like a SB Chev, Ford or Mopar V8 with a hot rodder knowledge base out there. You either keep it 100% stock or engineer from scratch, unlike a V8 hot rodders rebuild and race and tear up with a three inch catalog of catalog parts and a lot of people who know where it blows up, why, and the fix.

Reply to
Bret Ludwig

diagnose the vehicle as much as possible without tearing down the heads. That would be worthwhile to me. The cost for tearing down the heads is about what another engine would cost in labor. If the mechanic can convince me to tear down the heads, then that is fine. But again, none of the mechanics I have been to, either Chrysler or independents, seem inclined to even suggest the old-fashioned method of taking the engine apart to fix it because it takes too much time to be worthwhile to the customer. Maybe a shade tree mechanic who is curious.

Okay, you troglodyte, now it's your turn to growl.

Reply to
Bret Ludwig

Certainly not, but not entirely unknown to some:

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Reply to
cavedweller

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