1993 Chrysler Voyager 3.3 liter V6. Rocker arm and shaft completely worn out/damaged in the rear cylinder head. When trying to replace i found out no oil pumping to the cylinder head. Oilpressure is normal and front cylinder head shows no wear at all. Mileage is high (320000km). Any ideas? One idea is that camrod bearing has turned in its seat and the engine needs to be replaced. I have noticed a burned smell last 6 monts when parked and smell seems to come from the right side of the car.
More then likely that is the cause of your problem, the Bearing has turned, or the passage has stopped up, I have seen it both ways.,. That doesnt mean that the engine needs to be replaced
Thanks for quick reply. If the bearing has turned, what to do? Understand that i have to take engine out of the car to remove camrod. Haynes manual states that replacing cam bearing is out of the scope of the home mechanic. If the bearing rotates in its seat would that not ruin it and make it impossible to put a new bearing in the same place?
It has been a long time since I replaced a camshaft/bearing on that year vehicle, Im pretty sure the engine has to be pulled because the engine will not lower or raise high enough for clearance to pull the shaft out.
Lets see if i got this rigt. If the bearing has turned is that in relation to the crankcase or in relation to the camrod? Is the problem that a hole in the camrod and a hole in the bearng must be aligned or is it between the crankcase and the bearing?
"damnnickname" skrev i melding news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...
No such thing as a cam rod, what could have happened is, the bearing that is inside the block (used for the camshaft) has spun, when this happens there is no oil feed to that potion going up to the cylinder head
The camshaft (I assume thats what you mean by "camrod") spins in the bearing all the time. If the bearing has "turned," it is by definition turned in relation to the engine block.
Well i guess i have to pull out the engine and remove the camshaft to inspect if this is the reason. The manual i have does not show what the bearing look like and how to remove it. I assume there is more than one bearing? It does however say how to remove the camshaft . I guess i have to take it out and inspect it and try to figure out if it is possible to replace the bearings. If it looks to complicated or there is to much damage i probably would replace the engine with one from a junkyard. They want aprox. 1000$ for a used engine, but living in Norway it seems to costly to get a rebuilt engine. Rebuilding the thing myself looks to complicated. I would like to thank you all for your help and i will get back with the result of this problem.
Torgeir "Steve" skrev i melding news:W8ednTT snipped-for-privacy@texas.net...
Whoa there, let's not jump the gun just yet. We've all zeroed in on a rotated cam bearing as the culprit, but there are a couple other possibilities. I'm not intimately familiar with the 3.3 v6, but I believe it oils the rockers exactly like the pre-1992 Chrysler v8s did: oil flows from the cam bearing, up through a passage in the block, through the head gasket and into a passage in the head that leads to one of the rocker shaft pedestals, around the rocker shaft bolt that goes into that pedestal, and thus into the rocker shaft.
It is possible that the rocker shaft is incorrectly installed. The hole that the hold-down bolt passes through on the rocker shaft pedestal that contains the oil passage is supposed to be oversized on one side of the rocker shaft, giving clearance around the bolt so that the oil can flow into the shaft- if the shaft was ever removed and re-installed upside-down, oil flow will be blocked or severely restricted. Also, if the head gasket isn't properly aligned, or for some reason the oil passage hole wasn't punched out in the head gasket, oil flow will be blocked (I always check this hole on V8 head gaskets to make sure its fully open before I install them. And finally, the passage leading from the cam up through the block and head to the rocker pedestal is fairly small diameter and might be blocked by some type of debris. its hard to imagine this because only filtered oil *should* make it that far, but if it was ever run with a badly clogged oil filter so that the bypass valve lifted, it is possible.
Ummmm I wouldn't pull the engine just yet, the cylinder oil passage could be stopped up, since you know the head is bad, why not remove it, then crank the engine over to see if you have oil being pumped up thru the oil galley. if not.... then take it from there
Dont know where i would get hold of the original factory shop manual. One thing i am wondering about and probably soon will find out is how to replace those bearings. If the cam has to be pulled out from that hole and the the bearings are mounted on the engine block will i then be able to get to the bearings from below the intake manifold? Over the weekend i will dig into this problem. Cylinder head goes off first and then if no luck i will take out the engine. That part is well explained in the book i have. I would also like to say that i am surprised and also very happy that complete strangers to me are taking the time to provide good advise like these.
"torgeir jensen" wrote in news:d248hd$ntt$ snipped-for-privacy@services.kq.no:
This is a site you can get used factory service manuals from. It was posted by someone in this group, he semms to have a large selection. He will email you a price and order form. HTH
Oh, wow. That's gotta be Doug Vogel. I was buying manuals and literature for him 17 years ago!
(clickety click, google on snipped-for-privacy@aol.com) Yep, that's him.
Wonder whatever happened to some of my other old sources. Jim Lungwitz usually had excellent prices...and there was a guy in PA...Auto's Literature Shoppe, but I can't remember the guy's name. He had stuff NOBODY else had.
Then there's the guy in Richmond, BC, whose contact info I've been trying to find lately. Lynch, I think his name was.
Bah. My memory ain't what it used to be, as it seems.
Cam bearings require a special tool to install. They are not split like crankshaft and connecting rod bearings, but have to be installed onto a special mandrel that keeps them round while pressing them into the block. They're tapered front-to-rear (or rear-to-front, I forget which) so that the tool can pass through all the bearings:
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If the bearing is rotated in the block, the best bet is to let a machine shop pop the new bearings in. Shouldn't take them long- a lot less time than it would take you, and if you're like me you'd probably ruin a bearing or two along the way up the learning curve... ;-/
If there is no oil flowing after cylinder head is removed i think i will stop there and try to find a used engine and replace it. Engine has 320 000 km on it and i figure the metal missing from the rockerarm shaft must have gone somwhere. The inside of the cylinder head has a copper like color so it must have been very hot there. One problem though. Removed the exhaust manifold bolts but one bolt was very long with treads all the way out and it had a nut with an alternator mount on it. In other words no head on the bolt. Can not figure out how to remove it. The other bolts with a 10 mm head was very hard to loosen and i figure this is not going to be easy. I will try and put 2 nuts on the bolt and try to lock them to each other but i am sceptical. Any special tool for this or a pair of pliers?
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