Question about throttle body cleaning on 97 Cherokee

I don't know, but my 1995 YJ with sixty thousand miles hasn't needed throttle body cleaning yet. I did it once, but I don't really think it needed it...

Earle

Ted,

If you do in fact need the throttle body cleaned,

has a procedure posted for doing just that. You have to spend a couple of bucks on some throttle body cleaner and takes a little bit of your time. There was a noticable difference when I performed this on my 2000 TJ, it was like night and day.

Below is the porocedure.

Hope this helps,

Greg

Greg Smith posted this at Neons.org. It was not written by John Mastriano!

Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner/Conditioner is really good for removing carbon deposits...The following directions outline the way that professional mechanics have been using the cleaner for years -- they were finally published in TSB 18-31-97 for 1996-98 Jeep 4.0 Liter misfire conditions:

1.. Operate the vehicle until the vehicle reaches operating temperature. 2.. Remove the air tube from the throttle body. 3.. With the engine at an idle, spray the entire contents of Mopar Combustion Cleaner, p/n 04318001, directly into the throttle body. Allow the vehicle to load up with the cleaner to the point of almost stalling out. 4.. Shut the engine OFF after the entire can is ingested. 5.. With the hood closed and the vehicle parked inside the garage, allow the vehicle to soak for two to three hours. This will ensure that the engine will maintain its temperature and will allow proper solvent penetration. 6.. Drive the vehicle on a highway/freeway that will allow the vehicle to be driven safely at the posted speed limit. Upon entering the highway/freeway, accelerate hard to the posted speed limit and maintain speed. Slow down and then perform 5 to 10 Wide Open Throttle (WOT) upshifts. Continue driving at the maximum speed limit for 1-2 miles (if conditions allow).

Check the air filter for oil. If the CCV system is plugging up, the blow-by is vented to the air filter box then swallowed thru the throttle body. The more crankcase fumes it swallows, the faster it gets dirty. I treat the throttle body cleaning as an annual maintainance item - if you catch it before it starts to plug solid, then all it takes is pulling the intake hose and a few minutes with a can of spray cleaner. If the blow-by is getting pretty bad or you ignore the cleaning it will plug solid enough to need a full soak (with a few dril bits) to clean the throttle body.

The air tube is the flexible hose about 3 inches in diameter that runs from the air cleaner box to the top of the throttle body, which sets on top of the inrake manifold. It's held onto the air cleaner box with a clamp and onto the top of the throttle body by 3 small screws. For cleaning, take it off and get it out of the way.

You want to spray 2 basic places: into the main bore, where the butterfly valve that attached to the accelerator lives, and into the idle air control valve openings. The throttle position sensor (and the sensor for the auto xmission, if used) mount on the shaft that the butterfly is mounted on, the IAC is the other gizmo that has wires connected to it. The plunger on the IAC will gum up as well as the port it fits into, so you sometimes have to pull the IAC off and clean it specially, especially on some of the older ones. Open the butterfly and look for a ridge on the wall of the bore where the butterfly plate closes - mine had a build up of a good 1/8 inch when I first got it that took scrubbing with cleaner and a tooth brush to remove (I was surprised it even ran it was so gummed up!).

I do mine about once a year, but I've got a fair amount of blowby with

155,000 miles on the clock. If it's really dirty, check more often and just clean as needed. The need will be fairly obvious.

If it looks pretty dirty, also check any other passages you see - especially the one where the MAP sensor hose connects.

I also recently had the dealer recommend the throttle body cleaning, for around $180 (this was at 30k maintenance).

What is a reasonable price for this work if one were to pay 1) any mechanic or 2) a dealer's service shop?

Since all it takes is a spray-can of Berryman's B-12, some paper towels, and 10 minutes, I can't see paying one nickel for it.