Perhaps frost (or frozen moisture) on the door gasket? Could also be that the wrong kind of lube was used in conjunction with the motor mechanism and/or channels, and when it gets cold it's too thick and won't allow the motor to turn properly or makes the door sluggish... I have no experience with powered doors (sounds like a lazy man's feature to me), but are these capable of being opened manually? If so, does if feel hard to move when it's cold?
Interesting comment about the lube! IIRC, the motor control circuitry is designed to disengage if there is too much physical resistance - to prevent damage to the motor!
Now it could also be an internittant problem with the body control module, but it pays to check the simple stuff first.
I may pay to dress the rubber >Perhaps frost (or frozen moisture) on the door gasket? Could also be that
Pretty much anything below weather freezing, but even these past few days with temperature in the low 40s seemed to foul it.
It's in the garage now, so, not such a big deal.
But, oh yeah, opening and closing the automatic door manually is much harder than the other door which is completely manual. Besides the added weight, you are dealing with friction from stationery drive gears.
There is a default temp setting on the sliding door and the lifgate door to prevent from opening and closing automatically when the temps drop below the set specs. I forget what the spec was but it is alot colder then what you specified. Since your door is very hard to open and close manualy you will need to have the motor inside the door replaced. The clutch has worn out and in order to fix the problem you have to buy the clutch and get the motor free. It comes complete
The car is still under warranty, being repaired by the local dealer, with just a minimum deductible.
I took the van there last winter and they stated they were not able to duplicate the problem. (It was there for another reason, posted here, that was repaired in warranty)
I suppose I could demand that they just repair it, as I *know* there is a problem.
Not a mechanic so I have no right to speak to this; further I don't have a minivan nevermind a power operated door one, so I really can't speak to this... :)
But I'd respectfully offer the following, if I may.
The motor must be clutched in some manner, else opening the door manually would simultaneously be spinning the motor at about a gazillion rpm's - incredibly difficult if not impossible.
(try turning your [unplugged] electric drill chuck by hand to see what I mean)
So if we can agree that the motor is mechanically isolated when it's not operating, then the motor can have no effect on manual operation ?
I'd be preferring to look at a warped track, loose screws, a "something" dropped into the track, water getting into the track and freezing...
The only motor related thing might be if the clutching device weren't releasing... like a starter solenoid not coming back...
The drive motor has 3 parts and they are: the motor, the gear reduction and the clutch assembly. When the clutch goes bad it does not release the gear reduction and this makes the door hard to open manually. If the OP was to remove the lower gear at the bottom of the door (disengage the motor from the door) he will see that the door will now manually open freely. Buy the clutch for about $300 and get the motor free
But, by your suggestion, when the techs at the local Chrysler dealer "tested" this function, they found no abnormality? Or, perhaps, as was probably the case, they just pushed the button --- it worked --- pushed the button again --- it closed --- case closed.
My power of persuasion can be somewhat remarkable, however, as I don't use these guys except for warranty work, it tends to make me feel just a wee bit cheezy.
If you have a CHrysler service agreement you pay one deductible no matter how many repairs done at the same time so unless you enjoy paying an extra deductible, make them fix the door with the other repair they are currently doing.
It's a 3rd party that was allowed a one-time transference. I am the 2nd owner, and was just pleased that the dealer took it as payment for my back rack & pinion. The door is an inconvenience, not a "must have".
But, reading here, I think it would make sense to get this car scheduled and let them know ahead of time that there is a problem, I will pay them until they fix it, and I will NOT pay them a fee just to tell me there isn't a problem.
[which like countless other tax-paying law abiding US citizens I have to do on a semi-regular basis. Was that too bitter?]
see the thing is!what the dealer does not get is, you take it in because you have a real problem and you do not waste your time doing useless things such as taking the time to take your car in there if there is not a problem the real issue is they do not want to do stuff without getting cash and they do not get as much doing warranty work so you suffer and the first excuse they use is could not duplicate issue or no problem found when the real truth is they did not spend much time looking at it as they should have if it doesn't bite the tech in the nose it's no problem found but sometimes you will get a guy like glenn who can pick up on stuff others won't. try another dealer my boss makes it clear the no problem found does not fly in his shop but then again i'm a salary tech and not flat rate and i wil;l take the time to find it and fix it
Thanks for the other post, too. I will explain the situation more clearly to the dealership so that my expected results are more clearly in line with heir's.
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