Replaced radiator, now it wont start :(

ttp://images27.fotki.com/v972/photos/4/42816/143201/ncordeoilpressurewiringdiagram-vi.jpg

Oops the 'h' on 'http://' got chopped off of that link. Complete link to the schematic for the only low oil pressure sensor (which does nothing but control the idiot light in the cluster) in the

2nd gen. LH vehicle:
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Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
Reply to
Bill Putney
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Just to add - I suppose it it possible that an engine could shut off when its lifters totally collapse (if that happens before the bearings get destoyed) - certainly power would be reduced as lifters lost their oil supply. I can accept that as a possibility. But there is absolutley no shut down wired into any low engine oil pressure sensor or switch on this vehicle.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

I haven't followed this thread from the start, don't know what make/model car it is.... but has ANYONE suggested the neutral/park interlock switch wires might have been knocked loose? Seems an obvious thing to check to me....

Reply to
Steve

well I put it in neurtral and it rolls back and the engine wont even try and click when that happens so I assume their in order.

Reply to
AFX

The neutral interlock has NOTHING to do with the car shifting out of park and to neutral. Its a switch that disables the starter whenever the gear selector is in anything but neutral or park. If the wires get knocked off, its the same as if the car were in "drive" or "reverse." The starter won't operate.

Reply to
Steve

Bill,

Excellent site. Great prices! In the past I've managed to simply replace the contacts and wire brush the plunger. This has worked fine and I've always sold the vehicles before they needed a second set, but at this price, I agree it would be best to replace the plunger second time around!

I will file this site for future reference.

Bob

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(the parent company of Advance, Kragen, Schucks, etc.)>

Reply to
Bob Shuman

Glad to give you something to be excited about, Bob. :)

Seriously - I was happy when I found it too. Saves all the looking up the various Denso starter applications and replacement contacts parts that seems to be the norm for the various internet sources for the contacts that people have provided links to in the past. And - yes - about the best price I've seen for what you get.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Bob Shuman wrote:

Reply to
Bill Putney

Hence the word 'should'. My point was that in no way would it prevent the engine from cranking, which is totally true. The rest was a (wrong) assumption based on other engines. I stand corrected on that point.

Better luck next time. ;)

Reply to
SBlackfoot

Exactly, but when I used to try and start the car when it was in drive or neutral it wouldnt do anything, it still dosent, when its in park it gives me the single click

Reply to
AFX

Which is the wrong word because if it's not designed to do so, then it not only shouldn't but wouldn't.

Understood.

Well damn - when you state the facts and people keep ignoring them, sometimes there's nowhere else to go. :)

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

You're right - that proves that the neutral interlock is working.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

So are you bound and determined *NOT* to get the voltmeter out and troubleshoot it, i.e., find out where the power gets interupted on the way to the starter?

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

OK, divide and conquer.

Get a multimeter with alligator clips. Put it right on the starter bolt that feeds the high current power to the starter, then the frame of the car. If you have a built in solenoid it should read 12v. If you have an external solenoid, it might read 0 or 12v.

Try to start the car and watch the meter. What it does when it doesn't start will help tell you where to look.

If it drops to a volt or so and the starter doesn't crank, it's PROBABLY a battery/cable issue before where you're measuring. Start moving back towards the battery. If you measure the voltage right on the battery post and it drops and still doesn't start, it's gotta be something with the battery. As you move back toward the battery, if you suddenly see it STAY at

12v or at least stay somewhat high where previously it was diving to 0 you know you just passed the bad point.

If you have a solenoid in the starter, put the meter on the 'control' post for the solenoid. If you see it change when you try to start, chances are the problem is internal. If it doesn't change, then it's a problem somewhere else in the car like an interlock or even the key switch.

Reply to
Mike Y

All right guys, heres what I did,

I didnt want to break out a multimeter for one good reason, I didnt have one :)

Yesterday I bought a new negative cable, positive cable, fusable link and battery....and a multimeter :)

I put all the goodies in and it still gives me a single click, I got the meter out but right when I was about to test a huge downpour came and has kept me from the car since.

ill post when I go at it with the MM

Reply to
AFX

"AFX"

Multimeter - $ 10

Bunch of new parts - $100

Another day in the life of a fool - priceless.

- J

Reply to
Dll

Oh, you didn't say you were getting a click.

Nippondenso solenoid contacts strike again. Replace the contacts in the starter.

Reply to
Steve

Alright I got under the car and put a multimeter to the starter. I turned the car and it went from 15 to 17.0 and kind of stayed for a bit.

What does this mean?

Reply to
AFX

The numbers you've quoted below do not make much sense, at least to me since nominal battery voltage should be between 12 and 14 volts DC.

Can you explain where you had the multi-meter leads attached? Also, which jacks on the MM were you using and what range had you selected at the time you saw these numbers?

What DC voltage do you read across the battery terminals before attempting to start the vehicle and again during the period when the ignition key is turned to start?

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

It means you don't know how to use a multimeter.

Steve B.

Reply to
Steve B.

I agree with the others - something's not right there. You are not using the meter right or the meter is defective.

AND - you have to know *where* on the starter you are putting the meter lead. The hot lead from the battery goes to the input side of the solenoid. That would always be "hot". *IF* the solenoid contacts are bad, you need the meter lead on the ouput side of the solenoid/input side of the starter motor which *should* b ground with ignition switch off, and nominal 12 volts when igntion switch is in the "start" position. If that last reading is significantly lower than 12 volts (say, anywhere from 0 to 9 volts), then the contacts are bad like I've been suggesting since my very first post in this thread.

To reiterate: You have to realize that the contact is a large relay that passes the huge current from the battery to the starter. It's the output of the solnoid contacts that you have to look at with the ignition switch in the "start" position - *not* the hot wire from the battery.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

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