Set timing on an Intrepid

First, I've searched this and come up with nothing. Kinda leads me to believe the timing is computer controlled. The Haynes manual is useless too.

95 Intrepid 3.3L (not flex fuel), 215k miles, well maintained and in good condition.

How can I adjust the timing on this car?

The reason I ask is I seem to have picked up a little detonation in the last 7-10k miles. It'll knock when I load the engine on a steep hil in 3rd/4th gear. There's no problem in 1st/2nd even if I stab the gas from a stop.

The wires, Champion plugs (with the corrct gap), distributor cap and rotor have all been replaced with new Mopar units in the last 10-15k miles. Oil is changed with Valvoline 10w30 every 3-4k miles. The car is well maintained.

Should I try a colder plug? Cooler thermostat? The outside temp doesn't seem to matter. I've tried higher octane gas, even though it's expensive it doesn't seem to matter much. Can I retard the timing a bit?

Suggestions?

Reply to
Spiral_72
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Hi...

Not a mechanic, just an old retired electrical guy - but have you checked the knock sensor(s) ?

I *think* that a valid test is to let it idle, and while listening to the engine give the block a couple of light taps near to the knock sensor. If it's good, you should hear the effect as the timing retards and then comes back.

Take care.

Ken

Reply to
Ken Weitzel

You can't.

The 3.3 has never used a distributor cap or rotor.

Functional test of the EGR valve if it has one.

Reply to
aarcuda69062

I suspect it has significant carbon deposits in the cylinders. My '95 Concord 3.3L doesn't ping and I drive in very hilly country. I've used Chevron regular in it 99% of the time.

Reply to
Some O

That's not a bad idea actually. I might have to reset the computer after I change it (if it IS bad). It makes sense if I can't adjust the timing.

Crap. That's what I figured. I'll bet the distributor is injector timing, like on my 99 Ram.

Except mine, cause I've replaced it.

I'll check that out. I've had EGR valves go bad on other cars and it run like crap. Doesn't mean that's not it though.

I thought that too. I mentioned it in another post on the Dodge forums (which seems to be dead by the way). I guess there's not much I can do with that at this point, except a rebuild. Carbon deposits on the piston would seem to increase the C.R........ maybe not, but it's a thought.

Thanks for the info all. I'll check it all. I also thought the cat may be restricted, but it seems to hove plenty of power at high rpm = so it's moving air.

Reply to
Spiral_72

Trust me, you didn't. Closest thing that might be confused as a distributor would be the coil pack which is were the plug wires are connected to.

there are multiple ways an EGR can fail, stuck open or opening too much will symptom as runs like crap, not opening at all, not opening as far as it should or blocked passages will often result in knock.

Reply to
aarcuda69062

Thank you, that's very helpful info. I plan to check it all Thursday.

Reply to
Spiral_72

Thank you, that's very helpful info. I plan to check it all Thursday.

Reply to
Spiral_72

The timing is automatically set based on the data collected from the cam and crankshaft sensors.

-KM

Reply to
kmath50

Well, um, to set the record straight....... as much as it pains me to say I'm wrong..... ummmm, I seem to have lost the distributor on my Intrepid.

Yea, that's it.

P.S. I don't think it means anything, but I filled up with the high octane stuff (ouch) and there's no knock. At least it'll get me by until I fix the problem.

Reply to
Spiral_72

Then you are mistaking a 3.0 for a 3.3, because trust me... the 3.3 has never had a distributor. The 3.0 has.

EGR can fail two ways. Failing to "always on" makes a car run like crap. Failing to "never on" makes a car ping more than normal but otherwise it will run *great*.

Reply to
Steve

For the record, my problem seems to have been a faulty O2 sensor. She's running good as new again (almost!)

Reply to
Spiral_72

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