Spin-on filter replacement for canister type?

Oddly enough I was just asking on one of the other groups about the possibility of doing the exact opposite. I can tell you that Studebaker used a spin on filter for a few years (57-62 IIRC) and the bases are still available NOS. However, I suspect that the old Fram F4 might actually filter better than the later spin on filter. (well, maybe not a Fram element, but an element made to fit a Fram F4 housing by a decent manufacturer.)

Why do you want a spin on? I like the ease of maintaining the canister, and not spilling oil all over the engine every filter change.

nate

Fram used to make adapters to convert canister to spin on. I had one on my 65 Chevy SS, 327ci, 350 hp, 4 speed..........sigh!

The full flow filter on a GM was simplicity in itself to convert to a spin-on - as GM did themselves in the late seventies, more or less. Converting the bypass filter in a Mopar Flatty is a bit different.

The old canister filters were a lot better at cleaning oil than the newer spin on filters. The old elements for the filter were cotton. They were replaced by the junk pleated paper filters. The best filter ever made is still available that fits the flathead. It bolts to the fender panel and has two hoses that hook up to the engine the same way the origonal filter hooked up. It is a lot less messy to cahnge than the spin on filters. It is made by the Motor Guard Corporation of Manteca CA. The filter will turn the oil clear similar to the old FRAM elements that fit the origional housing.

Ralph

*eyeroll*

Sure, Ralphie. The pinnacle of oil filtration was in 1932. Shouldn't you be off at a carnival somewhere peddling your toilet paper filters?

Studebaker used a bypass spin on for a few years if you really want to do this. I believe the mount is still available NOS from SASCO for not too much $$$. Part no. 1555325 if you want to look it up. Uses a Wix

51050 filter or equivalent.

SASCO's web site:

Keep in mind ithat the oil is metered through brass fittings with small orifices to keep from dropping the pressure in the engine too much, you will have to reuse the fittings from your existing filter if you go down this road, or else buy new fittings. Unfortunately the whole kit is NLA and I don't have Studebaker part no's for the fittings with the orifices.

good luck,

nate

Actually filters that clean oil have been around since 1933. Back in the 60's you could still get good filter elements for the old cannister filters. In 1963 I put a Frantz oil cleaner on my Rambler American L head. The oil went from black to clear. The Rambler had a spin on bypass filter with the mount bolted to the head. It was junk. It was easy to use the existing fittings to hook up the Frantz. In

1966 Motor Guard came out with the M-100 submicronic bypass filter which was a lot easier to service and I started using them. Most people have been trained to think that oil is supposed to get dirty so Motor Guard converted over to industrial filters. The Motor Guard M-30 is die cast aluminum with an epoxy coating. My oldest filter still in use is a 30 year old M-100. Filters that clean oil were pretty much abandoned in favor of the more profitable system of allowing the oil to get dirty, wear and foul the engine then draining it. Many people didn't buy into the dirty oil system. Especially some owners of heavy duty diesel engines. If everyone thought that filters were supposed to clean oil you would be able to get the filters at auto parts stores plus they would be standard equipment. All a filter can do is clean oil. Clean oil can double or triple the life of an engine and clean oil doesn't need changing. Clean transmission fluid and fuel also have benefits in equipment. My 1937 Studebaker book says to change the filter when the oil looks dirty on the dipstick. The 37 Studebaker had a far superior filter to the junk they put on new cars. I prefer to change the filter before the oil looks dirty on the dip stick.

Ralph

Pleated paper filters have never been any good at cleaning oil. If they were your oil wouldn't get dirty. Your filter would get dirty. There is a way that you can come a little closer to cleaning oil with pleated paper. Yoou can get a remote filter mount from Perma-Cool such as a dual mount 771-1223 or a single mount 771-1211 from

and run hoses to it. You will need an orifice in the system such as the original Chryslers of about 1/16" so that all of your oil flow won't go thru the filter instead of the engine parts. You can also use a needle valve and pinch it down while watching your oil pressure gauge. I have a bypass filter mount that I took off a Mazda diesel. It has an orifice size of about 30 thousands. To actually clean oil you need for the oil to pass thru a lot of media at a slow rate; four inches is a lot more desirable than 1/32 inch.

Ralph