Thanks Bill and Ted.
Bill I agree with you, however what I want is Mopar ATF+4, a complete flush, a new filter and a reasonable price. The local Chrysler dealer, the local transmission shops and maintenance shops don't want to deliver this service. The either want to use a Multi-Vehicle ATF so they don't have to stock multiple types of ATF or they don't want to pull the pan and replace the filter so they can make money quickly. If I have to pay someone to replace the filter and then pay the Chrysler dealer for the flush, it will be almost $250.00 for routine maintenance on a transmission that can be overhauled for $1600.00 to $2000.00. This is not cost effective maintenance.
Thanks Ted, I like the procedure describe in the link which is copied below.
I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible with a 2.7L engine with the 4-speed automatic transmission.
Questions: Will I have to put the car in drive to compete the flush or will the fluid flush with it in park?
I am not that good a mechanic, definitely an amateur, but the procedure seems well within my capabilities. Ted points out in the info below how fast the fluid will drain.
Can I damage the transmission by adding fluid too slowly or overfilling it?
I will of course make sure it is not overfilled when I am completely finished by sucking any overfill out the filler tube.
Note to reader: James Bottger refers to a post that describes how to change the filter and add 4 to 5 quarts of fluid.
Per Ted's link:
James Bottger wrote: While it's much better for the transmission to change the fluid using the method in [the above] article than it is not to change the fluid at all, this method only replaces about half of the fluid in the transmission. The best thing to do is to change out ALL of the fluid, and this is also something a person can do themselves. First, drain the fluid from the pan, just like you would using Mr. Macfairlane's procedure. Once you've replaced the filter, the pan gasket, and reinstalled the pan, you're ready for the next step. Fill the transmission to the proper level using the proper type of transmission fluid. Then disconnect the return transmission line (the line in which transmission fluid flows from the transmission cooler back to the transmission), located near the bottom of the radiator. There's two transmission lines connected in this location, and the bottom line is usually the return line. Once the line has been disconnected, attach a clear piece of tubing to the transmission cooler, the same diameter as the transmission line, approximately 5-6 feet long, using the transmission line clamp to secure it. Place the unattached end of the clear tube in a plastic, one gallon milk container and place it where it can be seen (like not under the car). For the next portion of the procedure, make sure that the parking brake is set prior to continuing. Start the engine. The transmission needs to be put into "Drive" so the torque converter fluid is changed as well. Some transmissions will only circulate fluid through the torque converter only in drive. This especially applies to the electronically controlled transmissions. [Craig Sherman noted that Drive is needed for most transmissions, based on technical manuals] After approximately 4 to 5 quarts (obviously, if it's more than 4 quarts, you'll have to turn of the engine, and fetch another milk jug) of fluid have been pumped out, you should notice a change in the color of the fluid. It should go from a brownish red color, to a bright pinkish red color. When this happens, all of the old fluid has been replaced with new fluid. Be careful not to overfill the tranny during this procedure. When completed, reconnect the transmission return line to the transmission cooler. Check the fluid level as you normally would, and add fluid as required. This fluid change method is twice as good for your transmission as the method of only changing out half of the fluid is. Happy shifting! by Ted Mittelstaedt Today I flushed my A604/41TE Ultradrive transmission in my 95 Chrysler Town & Country. I followed the general idea that James Bottger outlined. I started with a case (12 quarts) of Valvoline ATF +3 and a transmission filter kit. This kit contained the filter and a new pan gasket. The fluid replaced from the pan itself was 4 quarts, and I flushed the rest of the case through the dipstick while the transmission was pumping the old fluid out the transmission return line. Total cost of the fluid and kit was about $45. The flushing process from start to finish including road testing took 3 hours. There were a couple things I noticed. First, there's an O ring that comes with the new pan filter - make sure this is on the filter when you install it. Also when installing the new filter, it takes quite a firm push to get the filter snapped in. Next, I disconnected the return line at the transmission itself, not the radiator. This gave me existing rubber lines to use so I didn't have to muck with plastic tubing. Edited by Mark M. Hicks : Ted and another reader discuss how the cooler lines should be hooked up. Two more pieces of advice. First, the speed at which the tranny pumps out fluid is very rapid, probably a quart every 10-15 seconds. Use a funnel that has a neck that is almost as wide as the dipstick - you're going to be dumping fluid in there as fast as it will pour out of the quart bottles. Lastly, KEEP TRACK OF YOUR FLUID VOLUMES! What I did is I vented the old fluid into plastic oil pans. I used a milk jug and repeatedly filled it with water and emptied it into the plastic oil pans then used white paint to make gallon marks on the inside of the oil pans where the water level was. (obviously I then dumped the water out) This way when the tranny was in Neutral and idling and fluid was pouring out of the output line into the plastic pan, I could easily look down through the engine compartment and see the paint marks on the pan and get a idea as to how fast I needed to dump the new fluid into the dipstick.