What engine needed special low coking oil?

Hey gang. I was reading this group a few months back, and I remember a discussion coming up about a certain Chrysler engine having problems with the timing idler coking up, and breaking the timing belt/chain.

I have searched for it on Goggle, but I can't come up with any results like I remember.

Can anyone help me out with this, and what engine it was. My daughter in law is looking at a Chrysler, and I have a feeling that it has the suspect engine.

Thanks!

Jim in NC

Reply to
Morgans
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That would be the 2.7 V6. Peek in the valve cover to look for signs of sludging. If the engine has been well maintained, it shouldn't be a problem, but it pays to run synthetic and change it like you would non-synthetic.

I had hoped to buy a nice Intrepid with the 2.7, because the old gal who owns it was scared by her kid into thinking the engine was going to fall out of it. I had offered her above high book, but then told her I didn't think her son knew WTF he was talking about. After a trip to the Chrysler dealer to look at what's available, she decided to keep the Intrepid and change the oil 3 times a year instead of 2. Her comment: "My, what positively UGLY cars!"

Reply to
DeserTBoB

"DeserTBoB" wrote

Thanks.

Reply to
Morgans

"DeserTBoB" wrote

Have they fixed the problem with a coked timing idler handgrenading the engine, and if so, what year did they fix it? If frequent oil changes with the recommended oil, is there a mileage where it is a wise thing to replace the idler and timing chain? (Is it a chain, or belt- I'm guessing a belt, since it is where oil is running around.)

I noticed that the oil filler had a marking on it recommending 5w - 20 oil, or something weird like that that. I thought that was strange, anyway!

Reply to
Morgans

They made some changes in '00 that they kind of kept quiet about - larger oil pump capacity, improved PCV, and possibly some other changes affecting oil return passages (like I say, they haven't been too free with documenting the changes lest they effectrively admit that there were problems that needed fixing). The fact that they're using the 2.7 on the new lines as their base engine, and we aren't hearing reports of problems is a good sign (that they fixed the problems) - the problems were real, and it would be unimaginable for them to continue the use of the engine to this extent without them fixing the problems to their own satisfaction.

FWIW, my daily 80 mile per day daily driver '99 Concorde has 170k miles on it and is running great. BTW - it has a timing chain, not belt, which is good, but, as with so many engines today, the water pump is integrated onto the cam drive system, and the engine is interference - that's not so good - but what are ya gonna do? I have not replaced the chain, tensioner, water pump or anything else internal. My philosophy right now is to watch for water leakage and keep going - if the water pump locks up, it's a risk at this point I'm willing to take. I reserve the right to panic and change my mind about this at any time and to go ahead and redo the front of the engine.

About a uear ago, I retrofitted one of the later factory changes - an improved PCV hose (steals heat from the cooling system to prevent the hose from clogging with blowby condensates). Other than that, bone stock with all original parts.

Since buying it used with 58k on it, I have used Castrol dino oil with 8 oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil in it at all times. Because the MMO is on the thin side, I blend 10W-30 and 20W-50 - 2-to-3 in the summer, 3-to-2 in the winter. That ough to be giving me the equivalent of around a 10W-30 in winter and 15W-40 in summer - just a guess. I don't go quite as thin as some mfgr.'s recommendations on oil - much of that has more to do with legally validating CAFE numbers than with engine longevity.

I attribute my problem free experience with the 2.7 with two things (besides regular oil changes - 3500 ±500 mile intervals and filter gets changed every time): (1) The lack of short-trip stop-and-go driving 80 mile daily commute, and (2) The MMO to clean it out initially when purchased and as a preventative. Others use synthetic, but it's not the panacia that many believe, especially if switched over to later in engine life - IMO...

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

Chuckle! That lady has normal styling taste.

Reply to
Some O

My wife's 2001 V6 2.7L Sebring is very internally clean and running very well. Only about 30k miles of mostly city driving, with the occasional 1,000 mile HWY trip. A few weeks ago while having it serviced I asked the service rep about the 2.7L sludge problem. He said people using 10W30 instead of the specified 5W30 have had problems.

Reply to
Some O

Nah! B.S.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Reply to
Bill Putney

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