I'm finding that when I start my 93 Grand Caravan cold, it will go into reverse with no problem, but sometimes it will not then go into drive. So that I am stuck waiting for up to ten minutes for the thing to finally click into drive, even thought it is the drive gear. It happened a couple of times in the summer, but I've noticed with the weather cooling off, its occuring more often. Including twice tonight. Thing is too when it finally goes into drive, it drives in low gear. But once I shut off the engine, and restart, it runs fine. Any suggestions on what it could be before I see a mechanic would be much appreciated. Like I say the transmission runs fine when the car warms up, but its when its cold that gives me a pain in the butt!
Thanks for answering. Its a 3.3 Litre V6. It has the overdrive transmission. Its still the original transmission believe it or not. It has run great most of the time, but I notice now in the colder weather it is acting funny when cold. Once it heats up its good all day.
At how many miles or KM? How often -- and how recently -- have the trans fluid and filter been changed, and which fluid has been used?
Then, assuming it's been awhile since the transmission fluid and filter was changed, you may get away with just a fluid/filter change. Use ATF+4 and a Mopar filter and pan gasket.
For this van ATF +4 isn't required, ATF +3 will work just as well and is available over the counter from any auto parts store significantly cheaper. Also more importantly if it doesen't fix the problem all the fluid is going to be thrown out anyway when you have the trans rebuilt.
The big benefit of the more expensive ATF +4 is that unlike ATF +3 it's a synthetic fluid, thus is reputed to last longer. Although, this group recommends frequent fluid changes even using ATF +4 in these trannys despite this.
Ted may be right about the rebuild. Our 93 Caravan with the same trans. did this very thing that yours is doing. A few months later it went into limp mode. When I removed it for rebuild the shop said it would be cheaper to buy a remanifactured trans. from the dealer. I did and it works good after 2 years. I would say to you don't wait to long to get the rebuild.
After the drive problem I had a few nights ago, it has driven fine since. It goes into drive without a hitch.
This problem, while occurring very infrequently, has been going on since June. Yet the transmission seems to be working fine outside of this hiccup. In fact I had a fluid change a couple of months ago, and the transmission guy said the van rode fine.
I did buy some of that Wynn's transmission conditioner. Maybe that will help tighten things up?
I'm sure the transmission can't be in the best of shape when it does things like this. After all, this is the original tranny, and I have about 190,000 kms on the thing. I guess I've been lukcy, but I'm trying to avoid any transmission work.
Just curious. How much would it cost to rebuild a transmissi>
Thanks for answering. This van, which I bought used two years ago, has 190,000 kms on it. Its the original transmission. I had the fluid changed a few months back. The mechanic then told me the van rode great.
This drive problem, which occurs very infrequently, disappeared for awhile after the fluid change, but came back a couple of nights ago. Since then I get in the van and go with no problem.
I did notice once that if I revved the engine before going into drive, that the transmission wouldn't shift into drive right away. Can revving the engine throw off the gear changing?
I also bought some of that Wynn's transmission conditioner yesterday. Might that help? I'm hoping this problem is a minor hiccup. Thanks.
But it is a better fluid. ATF-plus-anything isn't required in my '62 Dodge, which specs Type A/Suffix A fluid still available from Lubriplate, and which will accept Dexron. Nevertheless, shifting is markedly improved with ATF+4, so I use it.
...and it retains uniform characteristics over a wider temperature range at both hot and cold ends.
If memory serves me the dealer wanted about $2400 to replace with a remaned trans. I ended up buying the trans. and replacing it myself for about $1400. It was not and easy task. You will need about 200 lbs. of tools and depending on how dense the neighborhood is many pairs of earplugs.
Oops! Not living in an area that gets sub freezing temps regularly, and doesen't go much about 90 degrees in the summer, I tend to forget about that aspect of synthetics.
NO! Do NOT put ANYTHING into the trans fluid! These trannys are very particular about trans fluid and they have wet clutches in them which are continually bathed in trans fluid. You don't know what any kind of additive will do and if it changes the frictional coefficient much beyond what the trans computer expects it to be, the trans will shred itself in short order. Even if it doesen't do that, it could react with the friction material on the clutch and make it disintegrate.
The best thing you can do is do a full trans flush with new trans fluid and a new trans filter. While you said that this was done a couple months ago, it is unfortunately VERY common for these independent transmission shops to use Dexron II fluid plus a fluid friction modifier instead of the real ATF +3 or ATF +4. You get on the phone and start calling trans shops and asking them if it's OK to use Dexron II in these transmissions and your going to be stunned at the number of shops that say that it's OK. The friction modifier fluid that's out there (I am not going to mention names) does NOT work! There's strong financial incentives for trans shops to believe that it does work, and many will argue with you over the phone that it does.
If it has been flushed with real ATF + then you may need a trans computer firmware update, or the trans computer itself replaced.
As far as selling it in the spring, anyone who is shopping for one of these vans used if they have done any research at all on them, they will know all about the transmission issues. With the mileage on it, unless you can hand them a receipt for a trans rebuild when your showing the van, they are going to assume that the trans is ready to keel over and die. So don't think that a perfectly smoothly running trans in that year van is going to get you much in a sale.
Thanks for answering. I only had the transmission fluid replaced. Although I have no idea what the guy used. I will look into the flush and the ATF fluid you talk about.
And I haven't put that Wynn's fluid in yet. I guess I'll go get my money back!
Then again the van has driven great since I had trouble a couple of nights ago. It goes right into drive regardless of the temperature outside. Like there never was a problem.
Dumb question. I went through an automatic carwash the day the problem occurred. Would that have any affect on the transmission? Outside of that, I have no idea why the problem arose, and why it has disappeared just as quickly.
Not such a dumb question, because one of the electrical connectors could have "gotten wet". This reminds me of my late (and ex-) 87 Reliant that kept dying on the road during a particularly damp/wet spring in spite of all the "plug and play" stuff the dealer did (and he wanted to do more). I bought a can or Radio Shack Color-TV tuner contact cleaner in an aerosol can, unplugged the computer, distributor and another connector or 2 (cannot remember which). I sprayed both male and female ends of all, let the cleaner foam and do it's thing and THAT was the end of my problems with that car dying - except when I totalled it.
The recommendation that I have previously seen in this NG, is to have a reputable shop rebuild the transmission, rather than to purchase a rebuilt from Chrysler. Are the Chrysler rebuilts doing better these days?
I was kinda forced into buying the remaned trans. because the one I removed from the van was not worth rebuilding. I would much rather have a small local shop rebuild the trans.
First of all check the fluid level. It will act just the way you described when it's a little low, especially when the temps are cold. When it warms up and the fluid expands, the tranny will work just fine.
I just had my LHs's tranny rebuild last week by a local shop. It was shifting beautifully but was loosing about a quart of fluid every 300 miles (front seal). He charges $1400 to rebuild it himself, or $2200 to install a chysler rebuilt unit. I opted for him to rebuild my unit.
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