Xantia heater

The fan will not work on any speed. Why?

Reply to
xf8u
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I was reading , made by the entity known as xf8u, that requests spam to be sent to and I became inspired,

If the rear-window-defogger also doesn't work there could be a problem with the starter-lock.

Reply to
2Rowdy

xf8u ( snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

Transistor pack in the heater control's died.

Reply to
Adrian

Taking this and Adrian's response together, would it be safe to assume that if the rear-screen demist is still OK, the semiconductor bank in the heater is the more likely fault, and is there a difference between A/C and non A/C cars - because the same has happened to mine...except that when I pull off the separate thin pink wire to the heater, I can get the blower to run at one speed (moderate) if I start the car with the blower control "off", or full blast if I start the car with the blower control set to Full! Mine has A/C, but I believe there are differences in the blowers between A/c and standard cars.

TF

Reply to
Tony Fisk

eh?

My rear defogger doesn't work AND my fan fails to respond to manual speed setting (except FULL) but I had never conencted the two .

what is this "starter-lock" of which you speak?

intrigued of Shoreham

Reply to
drd

I was reading , made by the entity known as drd, that requests spam to be sent to and I became inspired,

That's where you put your key in to start the car. (I'm Dutch so forgive me if I can't find the correct words sometimes) There is an electric circuit in there that can short circuit sometimes (happened to me). That causes the fan and the rear defogger to fail. But when that happens they are both completely dead so that doesn't apply to your car.

Reply to
2Rowdy

2Rowdy means the ignition switch - it's a common fault caused by the switch actually having to switch the high current involved with the rear window demister and the blower fan.

The electrical part of the switch can be replaced without resorting to new key lock but Citroen will only sell them together. There is a simple modification that you can make to put a relay in the circuit so that thw switch only has to handle the coil current for the relay. If you let me have a real email address I can send you a pdf with the circuit diagram for this modification. Maplin (in the UK) sell a suitable relay (12V,

40A, SPST) for a couple of quid and it takes about 15 mins to fit.

HTH

Reply to
SteveG

A/c or not a/c? The fan control circuits are completely different on a/c cars.

TF

Reply to
Tony Fisk

it's got AC ...

does that mean the two ARE connected ? the fan speed thing is just plain annoying as it's quite loud at full chat, but with winter approaching I am missing my rear demister already!

atb

Steve

Reply to
drd

In news: snipped-for-privacy@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com, xf8u wittered on forthwith;

Dunno, my Xantia fan used to act weird if the heat was on full though, on Auto it'd switch the fan off if I selected full heat, and on manual fan speed it was always hotter if I moved the heat to the "28" position instead of full hot.

Doubt this helps, but hey, this is usenet.

Reply to
Pete M

Cars with A/c have a control module that is different to the relatively simple multi-resistor switching on non-a/c ones. On mine, the rear demister works fine, apparently exonerating the ignition switch as the culprit, but the fan works on full chat or low.

Here's the rub - to begin, the fan started running all the time, on a kind of fast-but-not-full-blast setting. I took the fan itself apart, but had no way of testing the semiconductor speed regulator that is built into it, and still don't know if this could be the culprit.

Anyway, it appears that two of the wires from the motor go to the a/c control module, not directly to the dash switch, so the fault could lie there - although on mine the a/c itself seems to work fine. Bizarrely, there is a pink wire to the heater which, if disconnected, allows the fan to run at either max or auto - but max will only work if it is selected before I start the engine!

Short of replacing every module progressively I do not know how to deal with it - I just wish I knew how to test the semiconductor block in the fan assembly, as I am still suspicious that it could be to blame, and would probably cost a couple of quid from the breakers - but how would I know if I had a good one.......?

And they called Joe Lucas the Prince of Darkness.....!

TF

Reply to
Tony Fisk

TF - thanks for the feedback ... sounds like I have a variation of a subset or superset of your problems!

On mine the fan wont run unless the engine is running which I find very odd ... ?

Luckily the fan speed thing is only a minor gripe - the rear defoggger is a more annoying malfunction.

S
Reply to
drd

SteveG, I have exactly the problem you describe. I would dearly love the wiring modication. Please email me.

Reply to
oldroyaloak

Reply to
fmonje2000

The ignition switch is too weak to handle the current needed by the blower. The cure is to use a relay (any relay for road light will do): At ignition switch, unplug the connector (2 big wires) going to the blower Plug them to the relay and command the relay via a +BAT after contact ( i added a wire coming from the radio). My car: xantia 1.8L 16V 1996

-- La vitesse vous effraie ? Windows est fait pour vous.

Reply to
RizAmer

Why not just remember to switch the blower off (as you should) before turning the key?!

contact ( i added

It would also be advisable to either use a relay with built in fuse or ad a line fuse into the load feed - an electrical fire in a car is not nice, especially if one is at high speed when thick acrid fumes start billowing out from the dashboard...

Reply to
Jerry

Fri, 8 Dec 2006 17:23:45 -0000, aut: "Jerry"

I am not the unique driver It tooks 8 years to burn the switch

The blower is fuse protected (F20)

-- La vitesse vous effraie ? Windows est fait pour vous.

Reply to
RizAmer

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