56 chevy 7004r trns

If want to up grade my trans from the 350 to a 7004r, anyone know what are the best years to look for at the wrecking yard, it will go behind my 350 stock cam 4bbl. Also , what torque converter to use and can I just use a
toggle switch to lock it?
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Just my 2 cents. Stick with the 350. 700r4 are junk.

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dependable than the 700R4. Unless you have an awfully good reason, I'd leave the 350 in there. If the current 350 is shelled out, rebuild it or find another one at a salvage yard. The 350 will be cheaper to buy and cheaper to rebuild.
Free advice, worth every penny you paid for it.
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Thanks for you input but I am looking for milage not horsepower.

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another thing you could do if you want the overdrive..go to www.gearvendors.com and look at what they have to offer...you could keep the reliability and durability of the th350 and simply add one of their overdrive units to it
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been there too expensive
wrote:

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What about changing the rear end to a high gear ratio
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Because I really want the original question answered, I guess no one knows how to answear it.
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An 88 or later 700r4 is pretty good. Most of the bugs had been worked out of them by then. Even so, I have an 84 that I rebuilt and updated a few parts in. Wasn't very expensive either. You can pull a 45 degree 700r4 out of any astrovan and it will work just fine. I would use the stock converter.
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Thank you. would the v6 trans work as well as one from a v8 car? I have a line on one from a Cadillac.
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Unfortunately the v-6 and the v-8 bell housings are vastly different in size due to the fact that the v-6 is a 90 degree engine while the v-8 engine is 45 degree (the v-6 bell housing is much narrower than the v-8). The only exception that I an aware of would be GM's 4.3L v-6 which is the 45 degree design. Also, GM's 3.8L is also a 45 degree design But am unaware of any rear wheel drive vehicles that used a 3.8L. I am curious....what size and year is that caddy tranny you have access to?
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Also, regarding lockup....A toggle switch in line with a brake switch (you need the kind that opens a second set of contacts as well as closing a set of contacts for the brake lights when you mash on the brakes). You should be able to a switch out of just about and mid to late eighties gm car or truck. But if not go to a parts store and ask for a brake switch for an 84 firebird w/auto tranny or similar car. The reason for this switch is that you don't want the converter to be locked when you start braking so the switch will interrupt the circuit and unlock it. Another thing is there is a 3-4 switch in the 700 that is used to make sure the converter doesn't lock up before 4th because the converter needs to be unlocked while the tranny is shifting. There are kits available to handle the lockup of the converter that cost around $70.
Tpiperformance.com seems to have a nice little kit for this.
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Also, regarding lockup....A toggle switch in line with a brake switch (you need the kind that opens a second set of contacts as well as closing a set of contacts for the brake lights when you mash on the brakes). You should be able to a switch out of just about and mid to late eighties gm car or truck. But if not go to a parts store and ask for a brake switch for an 84 firebird w/auto tranny or similar car. The reason for this switch is that you don't want the converter to be locked when you start braking so the switch will interrupt the circuit and unlock it. Another thing is there is a 3-4 switch in the 700 that is used to make sure the converter doesn't lock up before 4th because the converter needs to be unlocked while the tranny is shifting. There are kits available to handle the lockup of the converter that cost around $70.
Tpiperformance.com seems to have a nice little kit for this.
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I went this route in my '70 Blazer and am very pleased (after a few testy times). I have a lower first gear and the higher overdrive. Be sure you get a "heavy duty" (for trucks) torque converter.
First choice would be for you to get from a dealer, a rebuilt 3yr/36,000mi warranty for around $1200, with a manual shift valve kit installed (if possible). I believe this would be for a year before '88 and possibly '86 or before. In any case---pre computer. I believe the only thing you might need extra would be the adjustable bracket that mounts on your intake manifold to support the shift cable. (There is no vacuum shift on the 700R4). 2nd choice would be a "good" rebuilt with the same 3 yr/36,00 warranty. I would NOT recommend a non rebuilt unit. There were problems with the early ones, just like the early 350's and 400's, improved with different valving, materials and parts. Post here in this news group if you need more info. LD

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