I have a 1965 Chevrolet C-10 half ton pick-up and I have a small block 350 in my
truck, its a implant engine, not the original engine, we dont know what the
year of the engine it is because we cant find the VIN number...we think its a
'71. But when I stop and turn off my engine..I sometimes have to get under the
hood and prop the choke open with a CD case. I know that its the choke thats
going bad on it because when i prop it open, it takes a few trys to have the
engine turn over but it eventually does. I bought a new Edelbrock intake
Manafold and Carburator. But my dad is hisitant to change them. Is there
something that we can do that will avoid canging the manafold and carburator, or
is that something that has to be done? Thanks for reading this, I really
appreciate you taking the time to get back to me...thanks.
Perhaps correcting the problem with the existing carb would be desirable,
as it will be easier and far less expensive. Since you have not stated
what carb you have, or what style of choke it uses, I will assume you
have a non-ECM Rochester Quadra or DualJet.
First it must be said that on a hot start, the choke should of course be
open, and a cold start should have a closed choke. A closed choke on a
hot start may cause flooding, and an open (or propped open) choke on a
cold start will cause the excessive cranking from lean starting.
If you have a manual choke, please verify that the cable is present,
operates smoothly, and the linkage is assembled correctly; then it is
only a matter of operating it correctly.
An automatic choke (hot air style or electric) must be adjusted as
weather (ambient temperatures) change throughout the year. I prefer to
adjust by warming the engine with a short drive and then rotating the
housing to open the choke and provide a slight preload. Then just tweak
If you have damaged or missing choke components, used parts carbs can be
picked up at a salvage yard for very reasonable prices (I pay $15 at my
If you still wish to replace the carb,there are relatively inexpensive
adapters to mate the squarebore AFB to
the spreadbore (presumably) manifold on the engine. I am not personally
fond of the AFB, however, and would recommend returning the new parts and
instead fixing the existing carb. If you happen to have a 2bbl, adapters
exist as well, but
sticking a 4bbl on a 2bbl manifold is kind of pointless.
And on a final note, if the motor has trouble turning over, it ain't the
choke; if you meant that it has trouble starting (but cranks fine) then
you are on the right track.
On a second final note, the engine casting number (try mortec.com) can be
found on the driver's side of the bellhousing. This will help identify
the engine and provide a range of possible years of manufacture. The
block casting date can be found on the passenger's side of the
bellhousing. A pad in front of the passenger side head will hold the
VIN/suffix stampings (*unless* the block has been decked, in which case
the stampings are usually destroyed) which can help identify the specific RPO
and installation. Try nastyz28.com to decode these.
Best of luck
On Wed, 31 Dec 2003 18:21:56 -0700, swimming_b_dawg wrote:
remove 'spamsucks' from mail addy for replies.
I fart in Darl McBride's general direction.
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