need tips for reviving old truck

my brother has a 1936 chevy truck he has to get out of his garage. I have plenty of space to store it, but the truck has not been started or driven for 6 years. it's on jackstands.

it ran and drove ok prior to storage. apparently he "mothballed" it according to instructions he found in a book...don't know the details of that yet. it's not the original drivetrain, it has an early 60's inline

6 and a olds rear end. Tranny is four speed, no synchros, double clutcher.

dusty but otherwise in great shape. i need to move it 200 miles from his house to mine. i'd like to drive it...what items should i check out and what precautions should i take when trying to revive a vehicle that has sat so long?

I'm thinking :

make sure I can turn engine by hand with plugs out new battery hoses and belts change all fluids grease points (spindles, etc) brake bleed and test lights tires timing basic carb adjustments clutch check/adjustment warm up and check for leaks

20-30 minute test drive then check again for leaks

Mostly I am concerned about prep work I should do before trying to move the "moving parts" again...engine, trans, rear end, steering gear, suspension, wheels...maybe I should try something like a spray or small amount of mystery oil in the cylinders and let it sit overnight...things like that.

Thanks, John

Reply to
Flash Fyre
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Six years isn't really all that long in the grand scheme of things, particularly with a later engine and rear end. .

If it's not go>my brother has a 1936 chevy truck he has to get out of his garage. I

Reply to
myford100

Do you want encouragement, or the truth?

Were this me, I'd stick it on a trailer and haul it the 200 miles. To expect a vehicle that has been sitting for six years, was in unknown condition when stored, has had gosh knows what happen to it since, is expecting a lot!

If you *must* drive it, you need to bleed the brakes fully (the old fluid will be full of water). You need to check all the brake linings for delamination and failure, check the clutch for the same (usually clutches as they are under pressure, don't fail, but brakes do).

Change all fluids (oil, coolant, tranny oil, diff oil.) Lube all fittings. Repack front wheel bearings. Check very carefully (or better replace) the tiresf which are sure to be dry-rotted by now.

Have a follow-me come after you to stop and give you help when it breaks down, too!

Or, rent a trailer, and do it the easy way.

(BTW, 200 miles is a major distance for this situation, so carry every tool known to man, and a few extrans that haven't been invented yet, too).

Good luck!

Reply to
PeterD

You will have to dump any gas that is in the tank. There may be filter-clogging varnish deposits. If that is the case, you'll have to drop the tank and have it boiled out and sealed.

~ Jester

Reply to
HangingJester

Hey if you re-read my message it looks like you're assuming a lot...I've seen the truck sitting in the dark garage for the last several years, and I know it's history for the last decade.

If I run into problems I'll definitely have to rent a trailer.

Mostly am concerned about the engine sitting so long without turning. IMHO the rings/cylinders could use a treatment of some kind, if anyone has ideas please post.

Reply to
Skunk Worx

Sure. Start this way. (Let's assume it is that 60's six cylinder, with a 1 bbl carb...

Pull each spark plug, squirt in a bit of light oil. Not a lot, just a squirt.

Check the carb and make sure the throat is clear. I'd spray a bit of WD-40 down the carb. Again, not too much.

Ground the high-tension lead from the coil, and with the plugs out, crank it over about two revs with the starter. Some of that oil will spray out of the plug holes, so don't get a face full.

Once you've done the two revs, squirt a big more oil in the plug holes (again, moderation, not very much). Crank over (Plugs out!) until it builds up oil pressure. With no compression (plugs out) it will crank over quickly. If you don't get oil pressure, find out why!

Once oil pressure is up while cranking with plugs out, youre' ready to give it a real try.

Reinstall new plugs. (also check the cap and rotor, clean and dry both). Get everything hooked up (plugs wired correctly really helps).

Give it a quick shot of ether and (do both of these at the same time:) pray and crank. With luck you'll get at least a quick run. If there is no fuel getting to the carb it will die. Keep trying. The old fuel will be totally crapped out, bring at least five gallons of fresh gas (ten if you can find the cans!) Add that to the tank to dilute th eold stuff.

Keep with the ether and cranking until it runs or it is obvious it won' trun.

Where this me, my worries would be:

  1. Gas is so old and bad it won't burn at all. (this may require purging the fuel line, pump and carb).
  2. Fuel pump's valves are no longer sealing, so no fuel pressure.
  3. Carb's seals and gaskets have dried out and it leaks...

Good luck.

(PS once warmed up, I would do an oil change. Cheap insurance and just in case there's bad stuff in the oil...)

Reply to
PeterD

Thanks...your reply is very much appreciated. It's been 10 years since I've had a motor apart...needed the brain refresher. Between this and the other posts (and messages to my email) I think I have a decent shot if the truck is willing.

Will post back with progress notes monday for the curious...

-- John

Reply to
Skunk Worx

Chevy Truck Resource Pages are websites that have information about Chevy Trucks. Some of the sites have Forums for Questions and Answers. Many of the sites have tech articles about identifying old parts, how to replace parts or modify things and so forth.

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Reply to
Woogeroo

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