OK, I have two questions concerning my 65 Ford F250 - 300ci/6cyl.
First, break lights - For some reason, my break lights only work when
the ignition is on. If the key is in the off position, I have no power
to the sending unit on the Master Cylinder. Checked all fuses and
everything looks good. Any clue as to why this is? Where should that
power be routed from?
Second question, ignition, I think... I have a standard point ignition
(can't afford to go electronic yet but I will eventually) I have a
fairly new set of points/condenser, new cap/rotor. Gaped points to .025
everything looks good but it wants to choke and die when you give it
gas. I have swapped out the coil with no change. Wires all check good
and so do plugs. I had a similar problem years ago and found out that
the condenser was lose, so I checked that first, no change. Prior to
yesterday, occasionally when I started it up it would run like this,
then after I started it a few times it would run fine, now, it is
running like crap all the time. I'm running out of things to try, any
"I used to have a handle on life - but it broke"
Power should be coming from a fused line going directly to the
battery, not through a switched line. Sounds like somebody rewired
it, but not well.
Any possibility the ignition is okay but the running you've been doing
has stirred up some mud, blood, and crud in the gas tank, sending it
to the fuel filter and carburetor? A little water in the fuel bowl
will make it the berries to try to run.
Is the accelerator pump working okay? That'll cause a short stall on
acceleration, but usually it'll take off again after a few seconds.
Any possibility when the system was rewired that something was added
(light bulb, radio, other accessory) to the coil end of the ignition
resistance? The thought that brings this up is the rewired brake
lights. If there is an extra load on the resistance line, in addition
to the coil and points, that'll reduce the spark dramatically.
(About the time your truck was new, people were installing "running
lights" in the middle of the grille. A few of these were wired in at
the coil and they caused a lot of running problems. I put one of
these on our family's '62 Chrysler--but wired it correctly. This may
not be the case here, but it did happen.)
Do you still have the old condenser? If the engine was running fairly
well when it came out, you might switch it back in and eliminate the
new condenser as the source of the problem.
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