Capri 2.8 brooklands 87 Cuts out after 10min

My 1987 Brooklands cuts out after ticking over for 10min any one got any ideas what it might be? Thank you for any help you can give. Liam Dublin

Reply to
liamrabbitt
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Don't leave it to tick over for 10 minutes?

Seriously, it's the best way of wearing the camshaft out that you'll ever find.

Ron Robinson

Reply to
R.N. Robinson

Bollocks.

Reply to
Conor

Ask this lot here:

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Reply to
Conor

It's anything but. Early camshaft wear is common on gently driven cars.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Maybe, but I *really* hammered a 1978 or so company 2 litre Cortina's engine up and down the M6/M4/M1 for 80,000 miles or so in 2 years a good few years ago now, and it was the camshaft that gave out first. Perhaps I was just unlucky.

Around the same time, I did the same kind of thing with a Passat, that had the strange habit of the engine cutting out, or kind of slurring, at 120 mph or so, and at the same time blowing *huge* amounts of oil-smoke out of the exhaust, to the point of causing a serious fog hazard to the cars behind me. I'd just back off the throttle for a few seconds, then it would be OK again. Never did figure out what was causing it. Maybe the lease was about to run out...

Reply to
Dean Dark

Gently driven does not equal running on tickover alot.

Reply to
Conor

No, you were driving a Pinto engine. Camshafts of finest cheesemetal, with inadequate lubrication. The only things worse were the 2.5l Lancia Gamma.

Camshaft relative wear is more a factor of engine design than anything else. Some eat them, some don't. An over-revved engine may wear the bores or pistons out first, an over-laboured engine might hammer the bearings or crank journals. I don't believe that "light use is bad for camshafts", but it may reduce the wear on other parts without also lightening wear on the camshaft.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

It isn't actually. If you work out exactly what is going on in the valve gear of a conventional engine with valve springs you will find that the stress on the cam nose and the contact face of the tappet or whatever reduces as the engine speed increases. At tickover it is only distortion of the metal or the load being spread by the oil film that stops it being infinite. Think stress = load/area and tangents to a very small circle. As the engine speed rises the momentum of the tappet increasingly cancels out the valve spring load until at the maximum speed the cam and springs were designed for there is very little contact between the cam nose and the tappet.

Ron Robinson

Reply to
R.N. Robinson

Two possibilities: Electrical - have you got an electrical contact that becomes a bad contact as it warms up. Possibilities are a bad ballast resistor (if Capri has one - I don't know this car), or any other LT connection; damp in the distributor causing condensation in the cap or on the rotor arm giving a short of the HT. Fuel - Have you got a fuel pipe located where it would get hot enough to cause a vapour lock at tickover, but where cooling air from vehicle momentum or radiator fan at higher engine speeds would keep it cool.

If you are leaving it to tick over to warm up enough to melt ice on the windscreen, then icing up of carburettors or injection nozzles is another possibility.

You don't say how the engine restarts after it cuts out. This behaviour might point to other clues to what is happening.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Warren

In news: snipped-for-privacy@p10g2000cwp.googlegroups.com, liamrabbitt wrote something quite bizarre, possibly in an effort to confuddle the world. It went like so;

It's the electronic ignition module located on the nearside inner wing about

3/4 of the way up, I should imagine.. It's a grey metal box with "Motorcraft" written on it.

They're the least reliable part of a Capri / Granada of that age. Luckily, they're the same on all the V6 Fords from that era - you'll find one in any injection Capri, V6 Mk2 / 2.8i Mk3 Granada or in a 2.3 Sierra if there are any of those left..

Piece of the proverbial piss to replace.

Symptoms are normally it'll drive ok for a while then just stop dead, after

10 minutes it'll start again and behave perfectly for a few minutes then just die again for no reason.
Reply to
Pete M

Just a thought but my Calibra had a similar annoying habit which turned out to be a bit of dirt in the fuel tank breather (in the filler cap on a Calibra). It would run fine then just die. Leave it for a while, it would then start with no trouble at all. Easy check to make before you spend fotunes on other fixes.

Best of luck. John

liamrabbitt wrote:

Reply to
64Magnette

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