diesel engine that fits super snipe

Why bother with a smelly harsh diesel? You surely won't be doing enough mileage for the fuel consumption to be an issue? And it's going to make the vehicle worth less.

Have you worked out the cost of having the original engine fixed?

Fitting an entirely different unit isn't going to be easy.

Hi yes I price to have the engine rebuild one price was EURO 3700 and the o ther was EURO 5500 so not going down that road I think . The car that is fi nishing is only doing about 12 mpg so I thought that if I fitted a simple d iesel engine it would be a good option, won't be doing any thing with it ti ll next summer so am open to all suggestions they are such a beautiful car to drive Regards P.J

What requires fixing on the worn engine? 5500 euros sounds an awful lot unless special parts have to be made, etc. Have you looked for a decent used engine?

12 mpg as an average sounds like it needs sorting - they were never anything like that bad new.

That was the price for a complete engine rebuild new values so it could run on unleaded he would come and take out engine rebuild and refit engine all new parts it would be hard to pick up a good engine here in Ireland not a lot of humber super snipe here

If it is running reasonably evenly and the problem is the fuel consumption, then there is a good chance that the engine doesn't actually need a complete rebuild.

I used to own a 3-litre Rover which had 350,000 miles on the clock when I finally sold it and even at that mileage it didn't need a rebore or new bearings. I only sold it because I bought a house and for a while I couldn't afford a car - any car.

Big 6-cylinder engines don't generally have to work hard enough to wear out mechanically. Valves might burn and carburation and distributor condition might need attention but none of these require a major rebuild.

Then there is the question of whether the mileage covered can ever return the investment of hardened valves and valve seats to run unleaded. For relatively low mileages there is the option of lead substitutes eg

which looks a bit expensive until you calculate it on the basis than a bottle treats 100 gallons of fuel. If you prefer leaded fuel because that is what the engine was designed for, you can use real lead additive, eg I would start at basic diagnostics - compression test and fuel burn efficiency checks (eg with a Colourtune) and timing light jitter can point to where to start. The other possibility that is often overlooked is that the petrol you put in the tank might not all be getting to the engine, but might be leaking slowly, through perished tubing or leaking fuel pump or filter. Before assuming that the engine needs to be replaced, I would do some good old-fashioned diagnostics. That way you can tackle what needs repairing rather than taking the catch-all approach that if you replace everything it must fix it. If you can't do the diagnostics yourself there are still mechanics who can diagnose faults without plugging a laptop into a car's electronics, so ask around.

Bear in mind that although a diesel engine might give more miles to the gallon, it would need more frequent servicing and oil changes, and by the time you have bought replacements for the current engine and exhaust system and re-engineered all the fixings and mountings and perhaps changed the gearbox and prop shaft if the current ones are not compatible, you would need to do a huge mileage to recover the expenditure by improved MPG figures. Also bear in mind that after such a conversion, very few people who might buy a Super Snipe would want one that far removed from the original specification.

Jim

Thing is that to fit an entirely different engine is going to need lots and lots of parts specially made. So isn't going to be cheap either. And you'll end up with a car which may be worth a great deal less.

I've overhauled many an engine in my time. If it is badly worn, the best way is to remove it and strip it down. Then have any machining work done as found necessary. Reassemble and replace. If all that is really needed is a unleaded conversion, remove the head and send that to a specialist (assuming it is OHV) It does depend on the condition of the rest of the engine. It may well not require a full overhaul. To me, that involves a re-bore and new pistons and a crank grind, as well as replacing any other worn components like the camshaft and valve gear as necessary.

If you can't or don't want to DIY and need a pro to do the entire job for you including removing and re-fitting to the car, fitting a different engine in the same way is going to be even more costly. And you may find a problem finding anyone willing to do such work anyway - due to legal reasons.

Thanks Jim The engine is completely seized was driven without any oil some years ago ,at least that what the guy I bought it of said.but will check out the one that is running for leaks and tune her up I was told that te most they did when they were new was 17mpg Regards P.J

Hi Dave Yes I can do diy on the car I could take out engine and refit . I could even strip it down but was thinking I would use it more often if it was fuel efficient , will have to think long and hard about it thank you for your help Regards P.J

I did once rescue a seized engine, though admittedly it was from a Triumph Herald so a lot smaller than yours.

I took the head off and put a generous amount of penetrating oil onto each piston and left it. On the second day I added some more penetrating oil with a squirt of 3 in 1 oil. Then the next day I added more 3 in 1 and fitted a starter motor. I manually engaged the starter then used a Stillson to turn the starter motor pinion the wrong way and thus force the engine backwards a tooth or two on the starter ring. Then I connected a battery to the starter motor which wound the engine on that tooth or two and a fraction more before it stopped dead.

Out with the Stillson and I wound it back that tooth or three and a fraction more. I put a bit more 3 in 1 on the pistons and connected the battery again which wound it forward again until it stopped.

By repeatedly winding the engine back by hand then winding it forward on the battery, over the course of a day or so I eventually got the engine turned over one complete turn, after which the starter motor would wind it over and over.

At that point, it is possible to take the bottom off the engine and extract the pistons and check the condition of pistons, rings and bores as well as the big ends, and work out what needed to be replaced.

Whether it works for you or not I can't say, but it could be worth a try. All it is going to cost you is some squirts of oil and some time. And if it doesn't work, you are no worse off than you are now.

Jim

Hi Jim Thank you for that I will try that maybe in the new year and let you know how I got on

I'd think you'd have to do a lot of miles to recover the cost of the conversion. And to engineer a diesel to be as sweet and quiet as a petrol

6 isn't going to be easy. There are decent modern diesels - but they also have complicated electronics. Which may not be a simple job to use in another car.

Is that 17 mpg for an auto? Of course any MPG depends on how it is used, but I'd expect the cruising MPG on the manual to be at least 25.

No 17mpg is on a manual I checked it , they not very fuel efficient I got some other articles on line about them but they drive and look so good

Is LPG cheap in Ireland?

It's common on UK classics. Tank, regulator and cheap mixer valve.

If you are doing a large enough mileage to worry about fuel costs, why run a classic car anyway?

Much more fuel efficient used modern cars are dirt cheap.

Yes we have lpg here ,think I might sell the auto one and keep the manual one , i never drove the auto one I say it would only do about 12 mpg not a big problem but as the engine is sized in it I just thought of maybe putting in a diesel one

As I said not doing large mileages but as engine sizes just thinking of fitting a diesel