Done it, bought a stag!

Well, as per the subject line and after a lot of searching I've finally found and bought a half-decent Triumph Stag at a reasonable price!

1973 (early, so tax-free), Manual with Overdrive, in Mimosa yellow (IMO, the nicest colour they ever painted them in) and with the original 3.0 V8 engine. It was apparently subjected to a major restoration in the 80's, with a lot of new panels, and dry-stored for the last 14 years or so but most of what I'm seeing looks original. There's a few rust blisters here and there on the outside, all the interior trim is good so far, but I've yet to remove the hardtop and raise the soft-top as it's devoid of a handbook or any instructions how to do this! Anyone any clues? The floorpans and underside are solid, but have had a few little repair patches over the years and the original pathetically thin BL underseal has dried out and is flaking off all over the place to expose bare unpainted steel (!) with thankfully only a very light dusty oxidation coating, so it'll be out with the wire brushes and then plenty of waxoyl-type underseal unless anyone can suggest anything better? The engine seems sound (it was allegedly rebuilt at the same time as the resto job) with no camchain rattles and no overheating issues, although there is a tell-tale blue anti-freeze stain along the lower edges of both heads, maybe time for a torque check of the head bolts? Looking at the history that came with it, it's had 2 sets of "routine" head gasket replacements, a cam chain job, and a further complete top-end rebuild all between 1977 and 1984, so either it was a friday afternoon car or it was extremely pampered, I hope the latter but fear the former! I'd be grateful for any little hints/tips regarding stag ownership that anyone could pass on to me. Thanks in advance, Badger.

Discovery II 4.0 V8, on gas. Landrover 110 4.6 V8, on steroids? TR7 3.9 V8, on axle stands! Stag 3.0 V8, on the ramps at present.

Reply to
Badger
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Hope it's not like my brother's one which when bought had the hardtop fitted and described as having a new hood. Which it had. Unfortunately, the hood frame was totally trashed - and a new one is near 1000 quid...

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Yes, not underseal. A good etch primer then a chip-resistant topcoat (the stuff I have came from an autojumble and is fantastic, but unbranded). A lot of people recommend POR-15, this is however expensive and doesn't keep once opened. As for further rust prevention, one of the Dinitrol products - Frost list the range but you might find them cheaper elsewhere. But not underseal.

Reply to
Chris Bolus

Ok, ta for that Chris. Badger.

Discovery II 4.0 V8, on gas. Landrover 110 4.6 V8, on steroids? TR7 3.9 V8, on axle stands! Stag 3.0 V8, the Rumble-bee, on the ramps at present. Thunderbird Sport 900, the yellow Bumble-bee.

Reply to
Badger

Ok, attacked it with a wire cup brush in an angle grinder! Found a couple of little holes where the metal had obviously thinned out (boot floor, front and rear inner arches) which have all now been welded up after cutting out the rust. I decided to go with Hammerite no.1 (rust killer/primer/undercoat) and am now overcoating the whole lot with proper chassis black. Question. Seeing as the original factory applied underseal had done its job admirably of protecting the welded seams in the arches (but not the wheelarch lips themselves), what are the groups thoughts on applying hammerite underseal with waxoyl just to the seam areas for protection against stone chips and general dirt spray?

Badger Discovery II 4.0 V8, on gas. Landrover 110 4.6 V8, on steroids? TR7 3.9 V8, on axle stands! Stag 3.0 V8, the Rumble-bee, still on the ramps. Thunderbird Sport 900, the yellow Bumble-bee.

Reply to
Badger

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