I have two questions re the removal of the oil sending unit (located below the distributor on the side of the engine block) for a Spitfire
1500:
1) Is there a special tool required?
2) Do you need to remove all of the components on the side of the engine (e.g., distributor, air pump, fuel pump, etc.) to get a tool around the oil sending unit?
Last weekend, oil started pouring out through a hole in the center of the sending unit (between the three wire jacks). I have a replacement sending unit, but I'm having alot of trouble finding something to remove the old unit. Unfortunately, where I live, I am unable to perform any major repairs on the car, so I'm hoping there's an easy way to get this thing out.
No. But if the Spitfire one is like other Triumph ones, it wants a narrow spanner, and ISTR it is a Whitworth size. One of the flat spanners that used to be part of a bicycle tool kit would probably be ideal. Test for size on the replacement unit, so that you know that the one you use will fit.
You should be able to get it off without removing any major components. It will be on a taper thread, so once you have broken the initial grip, you should be able to unscrew it with your fingers. (disconnect any wires first though!)
One last thing... Don't overtighten the new unit. It is on a taper thread, and should be tightened just enough to be oil tight.
Jim, Thank you for the reply. Here's an update since yesterday: I actually came to a similar conclusion re the flat spanner and found a tool in my Yamaha kit that fit the replacement part almost perfectly. Unfortunately, it had the same problem I started with: not enough room (due to the other components--distributor, fuel pump, etc.--to get the wrench onto the sending unit.
I was able to get a socket wrench onto the sending unit...at least, most of the way onto it. Unfortunately, the wire connectors on the end of the sending unit kept the socket from fitting all the way onto it, but I got it 3/4 of the way. The problem was that it wasn't enough room to really get a good grip on the wrench handle to apply enough torque to break the threads of the sending unit from its lodging in the side of the engine.
I borrowed an electric impact wrench and tried that, thinking that a couple of "bangs" from the impact wrench would loosen the sending unit and I could then remove it. But, unfortunately, I ended up totally stripping the flats off the end of the sending unit, leaving it almost totally round with nothing left to get a wrench onto.
So, now, I think the only option would be to find some type of vice-grip type of tool that grips the part from the end, instead of from the side. I don't know if anything like that exists, but I'm imagining a long socket with some type of clamp at the end that tightens (like some oil filter removal tools do) as you grip and turn the part. That's the only option I can think of. Any other suggestions?
Like I didn't have enough trouble already. Yes, that nightmare's crossed my mind as well. Gee, and I was thinking...here's a task that outta be easy--just un-screw the old one, pop in the new one and drive off into the sunset...
You're on about the oil pressure switch aren't you? Sits just below and to the side of the dizzy?
Can be a real pain to get out, but a 6 sided socket of the right size on a wobble bar should get in there - Then use a large bar or trusty unbreakable ratchet and hammer.
Now you've rounded it, you might have to try and file/ grind new flats to suit a smaller socket size though.
As for the contacgts stopping teh socket fully fitting, either use a deeper socket, or mash them out the way - It's buggered, so it's not like you need the terminals to be in perfect shape anymore!
Good idea, but same problem--not enough room around the sending unit to get any tools in there (e.g., large file to grind new flats)....
That makes sense (re mashing the terminals down to fit a normal-sized socket onto it). I wish I'd've done that originally (before rounding the flats off!). Anyone know of a tool that fit a socket wrench and squeeze/clamp down on what's left of the rounded sending unit so I could then wrench it free with the socket wrench?
Ron, Thanks and you just perked my ears! What "stud extracting" socket? That sounds like what I need. I've posted some photos of the [stripped] part in the car that may help:
I was hoping that there might be another flat on the unit between the rounded off bit and the engine block, but if the old one is like the new one, there isn't!. I don't think a stud extractor will be big enough - I have never seen one that open up bigger than 5/8 inch.
Is there room to get a Stillson Wrench to it? They are designed to grip rounded things. I have also seen a self-grip (Mole style) wrench with concave jaws for gripping pipes, but from your photo, it doesn't look as though you have enough room to get them in.
There might be other tools designed to grip round things though. Do you know a friendly plumber who might know what the options are (and might let you borrow something?)
Yes, judging by picture it's too big for the average run of stud-running sockets - but you never know - they tell me they make things bigger in America! Basically what we are talking about is a device with a hole for the stud that is eccentric to the socket drive shaft and a knurled wheel that is concentric with it. You slide the stud through the hole and turning the socket grips it with the knurled wheel. It works in either direction and in theory the harder you need to turn it the tighter it grips. You might just find one that would fit what was left if you cut the big bit off the unit, but that would be a very last resort.
Good idea, but you'd need to find one who was used to dealing with proper pipework, not this new-fangled plastic stuff. Are they called chain-wrenches - the things that work by wrapping a bit of Reynolds (for want of a better term) chain around the offending article? I've got something like that for removing filter cartridges but it would be far too big for this sort of thing.
Ron, That sounds like what I need, but I think you're right about it being too large (or the available space being too small).
Again, close but no horseshoe. Thank you and I'm open if anyone has another recommendation. In the meantime, a local Jaguar shop's willing to have a go at it next week, if I can't get out on my own by then. David
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