LRP or additive?

Hi, can't afford to have the heads on my 2.8 Capri converted to unleaded quite yet, so I'm womdering whether it's best to use LRP or super unleaded with an additive - Castrol Valvemaster or similar.

Can anyone offer any advice?

Cheers

Mike

Reply to
Mike P
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Here the LRP seems to be a bad move to use as its causing problems with the engines. This has just started to filter through and I don't have all the information as yet. Have had problems with a Mini - which had a head job done and it failed with valve/valve guide problems although I did used an additive.

Now have been using a good premium unleaded with an additive and so far had no problems in the MG or Mini's. (One of the Mini's has not been seated.)

r
Reply to
ops

I have been running a Bedford CA 1600cc mk2 with LRP and touch wood have had no problems apart from I assume a lack of power because I am trying an octane booster which seems to be giving me a bit more oomph not that it had much to start with.

Martin P

Reply to
Campingstoveman

Just run it on the std unleaded. If it pinks try it with super. You should have enough lead memory to last you until you can get hardened isnerts and valves and new guides fitted. Dont exceed 4k rpm in cruise and you wont do any damage. Jonners

Reply to
Jon Tilson

"ops" > yet, so I'm womdering whether it's best to use LRP or super unleaded with an

I've done about 15,000 miles on an unconverted XK engine using Optimax and Millers. No probs so far.

Geoff MacK

Reply to
Geoff Mackenzie

Using Optimax here with additive on 2.8i Special. I use Esso LRP occassionally.

Reply to
Conor Turton

In article , Jon Tilson writes

Our 1970 Minor 1000, which has been run on sh*te petrol^W^WLRP ever since proper 4* leaded petrol was (mostly) banned, has only just started to show symptoms of burnt valves after about 6K miles. Head-off time soon, and put the other one on, which has had hardened seats fitted.

The car has done a mix of one long distance (~1300 miles) and many medium distance/local runs in that time. The A-series engine is reckoned, AIUI, to be one of the worst for valve seat recession in the absence of lead.

I'd say it's a fair bet that you'll get a few thousand more miles out of the engine until you need to get the heads done.

Regards, Andrew.

Reply to
Andrew Marshall

LRP is being phased out and was never much good anyway, so your choice will be between leaded, unleaded or unleaded plus additive. If you have a convenient source of 4* (see the Bayford Thrust web site for a list of outlets) then use it every third or fourth fill-up, otherwise choose one of the recommended additives and stick to the same one. Some additives also contain octane booster so you won't need to change the timing, but they are more expensive.

Reply to
Richard Porter

When LRP first appeared in the 4* pumps I tried it in my Triumph 2000. It was not all the same - Esso was far far better than Elf and even the best of them gave me starting and stalling problems on a lukewarm engine, but were OK cold or hot.

Then I read the leaflets that were being given out at petrol stations at the time where they specifically did not guarantee the LRP product for fast motorway journeys, so I bought RedLine to add to unleaded and have used it ever since.

Later when I bought the PI, I ran that on RedLine and Optimax. I have had no valve or seat problems with either engine.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Warren

Mike P was seen penning the following ode to ... whatever:

I've used Castrol Valvemaster Plus in several bikes over the last few years, mostly BMW aircooled twins that don't like unleaded. Worked fine for me.

I've stopped using LRP rather quickly, as I've had to replace the plastic fuel pipes on two bikes shortly after I started using LRP in them. They simply collapsed on the bikes I had to use LRP in, the same material held up fine on other bikes that I ran on straight unleaded and was never affected by leaded petrol either.

Reply to
Timo Geusch

I changed the tank on my 2.8, not knowing that it had a set of fuel catalyst pellets in it. When I refilled with LRP, the engine missed and spluttered very badly. After eventually realising that the pellets were in the tank, draining the LRP and refilling with unleaded, it runs like a dream. I saw the pellets available at Tower Lane garage in Armley, Leeds a few years ago and thought they'd be crap, but they're working for me. They were pricey though, around the £40 mark IIRC.

HTH

Nigel

Reply to
Flewolfece

Oh dear...

Reply to
Ian Dalziel

Apparently they really do work as do the inline ones. We're talking about ones to replace the chemicals missing in ULP rather than some gizmo that claims to reduce emissions whilst adding 20MPG and doubling the power.

Reply to
Conor Turton

The message from Ian Dalziel contains these words:

Why do the words Red Rag and Bull come to mind?

On a more practical note these things are usually described as a lead/tin alloy - solder is (usually at least) a lead/tin alloy and much much cheaper. And it can be bought easily enough without a flux core.

Roger

Reply to
Roger Chapman

Clever of you noticing something in your workplace...

Reply to
Dave Plowman

I've been running my Triumph Vitesse on Optimax and no additive for a couple of years. Checked the tappets last weekend and found no change after 7,000 miles, which was nice. Mind you, with 70mph coming in at

2500rpm, it's not exactly screaming it's head off for hours on end.
Reply to
Willy Eckerslyke

I have a bridge for sale that would probably interest you?

Reply to
Andy Luckman

Yeah,

I'd normally be as sceptical of any person "advertising" a trader, but on this occasion I was actually trying to help the guy. I just happen to know a lot of places where bits are available.

The road to hell is paved with good intent.

Cest La Guerre

Nigel

Reply to
Flewolfece

You're trying to help by advertising a place that sells snake oil?

Some good intent.

Reply to
Dave Plowman

All I can say is, the stuff works in my car

Reply to
Flewolfece

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