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Re: Transmission noise on Triumph 2000 - update

> I had similar noise before the diff ground its self to death on the Humber - > the oil seal on the offside halfshaft failed on a run to sunny Hunstanton > for the weekend. - and I unknowingly lost rather a lot of oil from the back > axle over the course of some 50 miles :-( > > As long as I kept the power on it ran quiet, it was only as I slowed for the > big roundabout on the outskirt of King's Lynn that this bloody awful > grinding noise became apparent, disappearing again under load. > >

This sounded expensive if this was my problem, so I started with this one. There were signs of a slight weep from the pinion oil seal, so I topped up the level. The diff was filled to the correct level after just a small squeeze of a 500ml bottle, so it took well under a quarter of a pint. I can't afford to ignore a leak in view of the consequences, but clearly low oil in the diff is not the immediate problem.

I also ran the engine and transmission with each side in turn jacked up to make the differential work hard. There were no strange noises.

I had a close look at the drum and backplate, and there was no sign of any polishing (but thanks for the idea Ron). One of the grub screws holding the offside brake drum was only finger tight, but with 4 properly tightened wheel nuts also holding the drum in place, I can't imagine this would be my problem.

The drive shaft flange bolts were all tight (but thanks for the idea Willy).

Having sorted the nearside drive shaft where I thought the noise was coming from, I have had a closer look at the offside one. There is no sign of wear or damage to the wheel bearing. Sight, sound and feel all suggest that it is perfect. The bearing housing retaining nuts are properly tightened too.

The noise only arises on bends, and the things that bends change are the speeds of the inside and outside wheels, the sideways forces on the wheels, the compression on the springs and hence the angle of the drive shaft. If the diff is OK and the wheel bearings are ok, and I know the springs and shocks are OK because I fitted new ones at Easter, then the finger surely points at changes in the angle of the drive shaft, which puts work onto the UJs. Or else give in the suspension arm bushes. Does anyone know the symptoms of these being worn or soft?

Meanwhile, I have focused on the offside drive shaft. I gave it a good shake and thought I could feel a knock, though I couldn't hear one. I am rapidly running out of ideas, so I think I might take it off to look at closely on a bench under a bright light, instead of laying underneath the car with a torch.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Warren
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I don't want to open up a can of worms or hijack your thread, but are you using GL4 or GL5 oil in the diff? Remember the saga of my Vitesse's gearbox? I've now found that the one remaining noise is actually the diff, and assumed it was caused by low oil due to a weeping seal, but on changing the seal found that the level wasn't _that_ low and that what oil there was had a rather metallic look to it. Then I noticed the warning on Canley Classics website, checked my oil can and found I've been running GL5 in the diff, which is reputed to disolve the thrust washers.

Reply to
Willy Eckerslyke

If you are going to take the drive shaft off and can't find anything obviously horrid in it, try putting it back on the other side of the car and see if the noise follows it across.

Ron Robinson

Reply to
R. N. Robinson

I have been using Shell EP90 - I was given a few tins (and a trolley jack) when my neighbour's friend closed his one man garage a few years ago. It is one of the recommended lubricants according to the original handbook.

Reply to
Jim Warren

I didn't just turn the wheel. I used pressure (pull top of tyre while pushing at the bottom and vice versa, then repeat side to side) while feeling and listening for knocks and play. And I had remembered to have the handbrake off at the time :-)

Noted. What I am getting is a very noticeable noise rather than a light noise, and I would expect a loudish noise to be accompanied by some detectable slackness. But when I have exhausted the shaft options, I might renew the wheel bearings and see if that makes a difference.

Reply to
Jim Warren

If it's very old, it's probably GL4, but EP90 can be either, which is the trap I fell into. I expect the book also recommends Castrol EP90, which most certainly comes as GL4 or GL5 as a look along Halfords' shelves will confirm.

Reply to
Willy Eckerslyke

Is there anything on the Shell tin that I can read to tell me whether or not it is GL4? And how old is "very old"?

Incidentally, the book recommends Castrol Hypoy rather than Castrol EP90. And what brands are GL4 and GL5 free at the moment?

Reply to
Jim Warren

snip

Castrol Hypoy is EP90 or EP80 depending on grade --- all EP oil are hypoy oils. When the 2000 was launched the only Castrol Hypoy grade was ep90

Reply to
AWM

Best to avoid switching roatations of drive shafts and halfshafts or any splined part as it can lead to reduced service life.

Reply to
AWM

I concur completely. At the reasonable cost and time expenditure of changing them both, it's daft not to.

Reply to
Andy Luckman

I'm pretty clueless about this as you probably guessed, but it's my impression that all (?) gear oils are either GL4 or GL5 specification and that if neither is mentioned, assume it's GL4.

I only mentioned the oil issue as a by-the-way after seeing the notice on Canley Classics' webpage. You're right, whether or not this is something to worry about is drifting away from the topic of the thread.

Reply to
Willy Eckerslyke

I couldn't find anything on the Canley site this morning, but a Google search found an American web site for owners of British cars. They specifically say that GL4 is OK but do not use GL5 oils... I am going to ignore the gear oil issue for now. I am pretty sure my problem is not in the diff.

I have arranged for my car to go on a hoist tomorrow. Then I will find out whether anything is more obvious when I can walk underneath it with a bright light. The garage also has a rolling road, which will make it possible to listen for noises from outside the car while the transmission turns. Identification of the source of a noise from the drivers seat is never easy.

In view of the help and interest so far (thanks for all the suggestions), I will report back what I find.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Warren

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