rust treatment

Hello

Has anyone ever had success with specialist rust treatments. In particular the type you can paint over existing rust. This would be for parts like chassis or inside doors where you may not need to over paint them. So far I have tried granville rust converter & por15 metal ready. Any better ideas please.

Thanks very much

Reply to
technical123
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Yep...cut and weld in new. It's the only solution for any car you want to keep.

All that these "rust remedies" do is delay the problem for a short time. They'll work a little ON ONE SIDE of the problem but as you know, rust comes from the inside out so by the time you see it on the outside of a panel, i'ts already come through from the back. And they don't stop it from spreading outwards or address the source of the problem in the first place.

Reply to
Conor

You are right, I know, but for sections where cut & weld is not worthwhile or you cannot access the problem. Any ideas please, of course I could use the old favourite - used engine oil...

Reply to
technical123

Cut and weld is always worthwhile - it's the only solution. Used Engine oil isn't going to do anything than cover up the problem and can actually accelerate it by trapping in damp.

Reply to
Conor

You'll stop rust by excluding air. Just painting over it doesn't work as rust 'moves' and will cause the paint to crack and let in air. Rust treatments try and get round this by neutralising the rust into a more stable compound. However, for somewhere that doesn't show, a decent wax will keep out air and remain flexible enough not to crack. Dinitrol is a well known and respected brand.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Mmm. Love that on the inside of my car doors. You do know that it's not very good for you at all? Carcinogenic IIRC.

Reply to
Doki

My favourite product at the moment is Owatrol Oil Unusual stuff but seems more effective than most snake oil...

Chris D

Reply to
Chris N Deuchar

IME it's best to drop the shell into a solution of washing soda, connect the negative croc clip to a sacrificial electrode (say an old bolt or three), and the positive to the shell...

Reply to
Doki

But only were it touches the skin, surely? Don't think he meant covering the leather in it. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Only really nasty if you get in on your balls.

Wash your hands before and after going for a pee.

Richard Web pages:

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- caravanning,
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- personal web site and
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I loves the domain name for email.

Reply to
Richard Cole

Reply to
David Billington

I believe so. I still wouldn't want it in my car doors. Just buy some fecking wax...

Reply to
Doki

Go on then, how do you use it? Their website suggests it's supposed to be added to paint to make it slide off the brush better.

Reply to
Willy Eckerslyke

...and believe me I have used nearly everything available over the=20 last 40 years!

That was the original purpose, if you keep reading the tech blurb it=20 describes how it has been found to be an excellent rust cure &=20 preventer. Paint it on (it goes on like water and finds every crevice=20 and microscopic gap and fills it). If the surface goes dry you paint=20 on some more straightaway BEFORE the first coat dries.

See here

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(for=20example)

After 24 hours you can paint and prime as usual - but the paint flows=20 on more smoothly :-)

You can buy it from Dulux paint centres for about =A315 per litre.=20 Sounds expensive but it goes miles.

HTH!

Chris D

--=20 The Deuchars. Tel(work):0115 951 6264

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Reply to
Chris N Deuchar

Reply to
David Billington

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

Reply to
Willy Eckerslyke

And still nobody corrects my deliverate mistake...

Reply to
Doki

Yes yes yes, alright - it would be a sacrificial ANODE and therefore connected to the +ve supply....

Reply to
Phil

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