SD1 Vitesse TP bits

A complete set of Twin Plenum injection bits - ie inlet manifold and above, and all the electronics, hoses etc, has just made over 650 quid on Ebay. The same bits for a single plenum make perhaps 120 quid...

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
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I was watching that and wondering what makes a TP setup so desirable. Apart from being rarer than SP's IIRC Tom Walkinshaw had them made so he could improve the engine tune for racing purposes, but in a std car offer little performance gain, if any, over an SP. I can only assume that the buyer has tuning in mind. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

Yes - didn't Rover stick with SP even on the larger engines? Certainly the

3.9. Jaguar used a TP setup with the same injection on the XJ6 4.2, though. Perhaps it's of more benefit on a straight six.
Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Last year the ammeter on my 1952 Lea-Francis began to behave more like the rev-counter, i.e. the charging rate varied with the revs regardless of the battery state. I changed the regulator which effected a temporary cure but it has just started doing it again. It's not consistent (yet). sometimes the charging rate stays constant at an amp or two regardless of whether you have headlamps on (which is more or less what I want it to do), but at other times the ammeter needle goes right up to 20amps at about 2,500 rpm. Does this sort of behaviour ring a bell with anybody or do I have to get the book out and go hunting with voltmeter etc.? Do I check the dynamo first or assume that if it can produce 20 amps it must be OK?

All - well, most - suggestions welcomed as vehicle electrics are not my strong point.

Ron Robinson

Reply to
R.N. Robinson

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember "R.N. Robinson" saying something like:

I'd say the fault is still with the regulator. Those were notorious for needing the contacts cleaned and set up properly every so often. Was it a new or recon regulator? If the car's been mostly idle, a simple clean of the contact faces might suffice - but don't use emery, use a fibreglass board made for the cleaning of contacts.

Reply to
Grimly Curmudgeon

"R.N. Robinson" wrote in message news:e5v54f$rtp$ snipped-for-privacy@nntp.aioe.org...

First check would be that the battery is good, then check every lead for clean and tight. After that it is down to getting a meter out and checking the dynamo output and then the control box.

AFAIK all dynamo systems of this era are pretty similar.

mrcheerful

Reply to
mrcheerful

The present regulator is a recently reconditioned job and worked OK to begin with. I know one's first reaction is to blame it. I'll have a look at the contacts to see if there is anything obviously amiss, but if not and in the absence of any other suggestions it seems as though I'll have to go to square one with the voltmeter and start with the dynamo. After all this stuff does have to obey the laws of common sense - it's not as though I was dealing with a Spagthorpe ;-)

Reply to
R.N. Robinson

Many thanks. Battery is OK, leads should be clean and properly fastened, but I'll check them again before I do much else. Unless there is anything obvious it seems like a case of getting the meter out and starting at the dynamo (see my reply to Grimly)

Ron Robinson

Reply to
R.N. Robinson

The regulator is sticking. They are a very crude device which simply switches the field coils on and off rapidly. They are adjustable. Have you got the instructions for setting one up?

It's possible you have some shorted turns in the field coils of the dynamo which is causing the regulator points to fuse together due to excess current - this will be obvious if they're burnt.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Thanks Dave. I've just had a look and the regulator points appear perfect I've got some gen on setting the things up somewhere, looks like I'll have to try to find it.

Ron Robinson

Reply to
R.N. Robinson

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