Shorrock blower on a Frogeye

has anyone seen one of these fitted? I have most of the parts in kit form, but the bigger front pulley will be just touching the front crossmember by the look of it, any ideas? I could cut out the crossmember like on the Big Healey, but I'm not sure if that is wise.... or I could make some kind of tie bar to hold the engine back a few millimeters. what is the recommended way? Charlie

Reply to
Healey Man
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If you're thinking of blowing the original 948 - don't. It's a very weak unit. Just fit a 1275 instead. Done with care, no one could tell. You'll get the same torque without the aggro and better reliability.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I have the original 1960 issue of Motor Sport containing John Bolster's road test of the blown Frogeye. There is a pic of the engine but it probably won't show what you want. There were no chassis mods, so I am wondering if you have the right blower. Quite a few of these cars were produced by the works and they were reasonably reliable. Power was about the same as a 1275, so you are better off dropping in one of those - you will have cheaper insurance as well I would guess. Blowing 948s is popular in the US but they more commonly use Judson units. If it were me, I would go for a tuned unblown 1275 for power and reliability. But there is something about a blower....

Reply to
Asolepius

Reply to
David Billington

Reply to
David Billington

Thanks for your recommendations - the 1275 would be a nicer drive probably but not eligable for period rallys and runs. And I already have the blower...... You are correct, the drive is a twin V belt, so there is a new front pulley with 3 drives, one original and two for the blower. This will fit, but it is so close, that it will touch occasionally, and definately under braking; A small mod on the front engine mount would probably do it. I will chase up your Devon club recommendation.

Reply to
Healey Man

Thats the later block that don't have push rod covers.

Reply to
Rob

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