Stripping aluminium: advice welcome

Ian (ian.groups@btinternet.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like they
were saying :


Not surprised - it'll ruin the soft thin ally.

Coarse wire wool?

You shouldn't need a wire brush if using the correct paint stripper. It
should just hose off. A nylon brush might help, though. But Nitromors
won't work well on every type of paint and undercoat. I used it on the
sunroof of my SD1 which was painted with cellulose. Took off the top paint
perfectly but barely touched the primer/filler.

--
*Where do forest rangers go to "get away from it all?"

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

For instance, it's crap on water-based varnish. I splattered a few drops
on some rough-textured floor tiles and it's a bastard to get off.

--
Skipweasel
We have always been at war with Iran. [George Orwell - almost]

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 10:23:20 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


===================================
Is a *nylon* brush OK with Nitromors? It damages most plastics.

Cic.

--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

It's a guess. I have three brushes bought in a DIY shed - plastic bodies
with steel, brass and plastic bristles. The plastic one seems ok with
Nitromors. Not certain what type of plastic it is. However, Nitromors in
some sizes comes with a plastic cap which you can use as a container for
it.

--
*Bills travel through the mail at twice the speed of cheques *

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The cap is polyethylene (PE) which is safe with most solvents. Although
petrol will soften PE fairly quickly.

from %steve%@malloc.co.uk (Steve Firth) contains these words:


Really? How come my petrol can's marked HD PE then?

--
Skipweasel
We have always been at war with Iran. [George Orwell - almost]

Because it's not marked LDPE, which will soften, sorry I didn't realise
I had to give an encyclopaedic reference to cover every possible case.

In the bad old days people used to faul foul of this by using LDPE
engine oil bottles to store petrol. Over about 12 months or so they
would soften enough to begin weeping petrol. I've just encountered it
again when I asked by local ferramenta (hardware store) for a bottle to
store 2L of petrol for a brushcutter. They gave me a container, I didn't
pay much attention, filled it with 2T and after a week the bottle was
noticeably softer. Bought another one from a different store, marked
HDPE and it's fine.

Although in laboratory use it's generally regarded as stupid to store
liquids such as xylene and other organic liquids in any form of plastic
container.

Steve Firth wrote:

Why didn't you just write hardware store, why use ferramenta?

--
ThePunisher

What's it to do with you fuck face?

Steve Firth wrote:

Lol! hit a nerve? you dumb sack of shit.

--
ThePunisher

Is that some type of anti-frothing/smelling vaginal medication?
I only ask as indeed firth has a vagina!

That was what I found on the steel panels I have done: the Nitromors
remove the paint pretty effectively, but only softened the filled
slightly, so mechanical removal was necessary. It's the filler that's
the problem, by the way, so I can't just sand it down, alas.

Ian

On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 10:23:20 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"


In 1962 as a schoolboy experimenter I used to use it to denature
/soften epoxy potting compound to get the transistors out of logic
modules  (a single R-S flip flop or similar in a box like a small
jewellery box).

DG

Ian,

I worked as a volunteer at Duxford IWM for many years and when we stripped
pain off of aircraft we used Nitromors and plastic wool which cleaned it a
treat, don't use a wire brush.

Martin P

wrote:

Thanks (and thanks all). Sounds as if Nitromors + plastic/steel wool
is the stuff to use. I just hope I don't have to deal with too much
filler...

Ian

wrote:


Yes. Do NOT use a wire brush on an angle grinder. On aluminium it's
horrendous. Even on steel the marks have a tendancy to show up under
certain lighting once the car is finished.

If you still can't get all the paint off with chemical stripping, and
most paint factors like Autopaint will sell a heavy duty gel-based
paint stripper, then use a DA sander with a coarse grit pad - about
80-120.

Alex

Even a D/A sander will remove metal very easily when dealing with aluminium.
Best thing I've found (when dealing with landrover ally bodywork) is
scotchbrite pads, and stripper, of course.
Badger.