To Stag or Not To Stag - Page 5

:Jerry: wrote:


 From experience its quite visible where the coolant is coming from, as
there ain't many alternatives choose.

Coolant will still be green when it comes out the exhaust. (now guess
what the problem is then)

Yes, I know that if you look for were the coolant is leaking from one
will see were the leak is - but - this all started because that pratt
"Badger" said that is we see water in the valley then it means the
pump is leaking, unless it's not the pump, you then came along and
said that the coolant is coolant coloured and when I asked how that
helps, you replied "because it's visible"!...

:Jerry: wrote:

That should have been the end of story


- but - this all started because that pratt

The pump does not leak into the valley unless its the flange gasket of
the housing.

  unless it's not the pump, you then came along and

Most likely green fluro, or now some companies are also making it orange
and yellow.

  and when I asked how that

Well then again - Fluro colours of coolant are visible and
distinguishable from puddles of water.

I'm not the pratt Jerry, you've obviously no idea what a stag engine looks
like and have probably never owned one or worked on one either. You, as
usual, make yourself out to be a pratt by showing a *little* useful general
working knowledge but then resorting to mud-slinging when you are
contradicted or proven wrong, same as you do on all the other newsgroups
you've been kill-filed on!
I didn't say that "if water is seen in the valley the pump is leaking", I
said that *may* be where it is coming from, and even told you about the
tell-tale in the pump body as a place to check. I also stated that it's
worth checking the inlet manifold gaskets for leaks as well, as they have
been known to leak on the stag engine fairly often. One of the reasons they
tend to leak is an incorrect torqueing procedure for the heads/inlet
manifold.
It wasn't me who said "it's coolant coloured", as that would have been
stating the obvious. Sorry if my assumption was incorrect that most people
who would be inclined to look in the first place actually knew that
antifreeze is added to the water causing a colour change.
In my opinion (speaking as a stag owner and engineer of some 25 years
standing) it's painfully obvious that to find a leak you must use your eyes
and look for it - I simply gave areas to investigate and also prompted
thought by suggesting the use of a mirror and strong light to asist in the
search. Even if there were no antifreeze (of any colour) in the system,
which let's face it would be stupidity in the first instance, you can still
look for the appearance of water using the suggested methods. If the system
is hot and pressurised then you will, with a little perseverance, find the
source of the leak(s). Oh, and before you try to win smarty-points by
correcting me again, this obviously includes a thorough check on all the
various hose connections in that area - of which there are many - in
differing configurations for mk1 and mk2 cooling systems.
Badger.

Other one is head machineing after head gasket failure - this obviously
upsets the inlet manifold to head mating.

--
*When I'm not in my right mind, my left mind gets pretty crowded *

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

People like you kill-file me, in other words big headed idiots who
spout on about what they are clueless about whilst their egos won't
allow them to admit that they are wrong when shown up to be wrong...


Lets just remind ourselves of what you did say;

There is a "tell-tale" hole in the casting, I *think* to the rear of
the
pump body. If coolant is leaking here, it will be visible in the
valley area
and means the pump gland seals are about to fail. Don't confuse this
with
leaking inlet manifold gaskets which also cause coolant to be visible
in the
valley though.
</quote>

"If coolant is leaking here, it will be visible in the valley area
and *means* the pump gland seals are about to fail." - looks to me
that you have shown yourself up as an out-and-out liar...


Whilst I have 30 years as a *motor engineer*, doing my aprentership in
an ex Triumph dealer - for all we know you could be a toilet paper
engineer...

 it's painfully obvious that to find a leak you must use your eyes

The only idea you mentioned was to look in the valley, heck if there
was no colour to the coolant the water *could* even have come from the
car going through floor water! It was I who suggested drying the area
and then pressure testing and looking - not you or your side-kick.

 If the system

Which is not what you first said...

PLONK!

That says far more about you, as a person of integrity and knowledge,
than it does me!

Welcome to the club :-) May you have as much fun with it as we've had
(and are still having) with ours.

Mark

Accompanied by the sound of a chisel on slate
to produce the following words of wisdom

I do hope you weren't referring to me with the bloke in pub comment!


Well, have fun with it. Don't forget to put Rimmer Bros on your speed-dial.

--
Pete M - That Scouse Git - OMF#9

W&P Range Rover V8 Turbo
Golf GTi 2.0 (Mk2 - proper one)

Then something was wrong with that rebuild as they don't all 'pop' head
gaskets and never have.

--
*If vegetable oil comes from vegetables, where does baby oil come from? *

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Accompanied by the sound of a chisel on slate Dave Plowman
wisdom

Was a faulty head casting that caused it.

Genuine, "NOS" head.


--
Pete M - That Scouse Git - OMF#9

W&P Range Rover V8 Turbo
Golf GTi 2.0 (Mk2 - proper one)
Golf GTi Mk1 (For Sale)

Gran Turismo gives me the impression they'd be a bit deadly. Is that
correct?

managed to produce the following words of wisdom

I was playing in the Interceptor today, not the kind of thing to be hooning
about like a madman in, but it is amusingly quick for such a big old barge.

Brakes aren't wonderful though, the calipers are from an old FX4 cab and I
think the discs might be Rover P6 fronts. They work ok but I'd not like to
push 'em too hard. Discs look tiny on it.


--
Pete M - That Scouse Git - OMF#9

W&P Range Rover V8 Turbo
Golf GTi 2.0 (Mk2 - proper one)
Golf GTi Mk1 (For Sale)

They have a tendency to massive spins if you so much as breathe at high
speed in the game.

managed to produce the following words of wisdom

It's about £15k too expensive to take the chance in.

Out in it again today, which was nice

Apart from when the temp gauge tried to give me heart failure. Cleaning the
crap off the radiator fan fuse cured that quickly enough though.


--
Pete M - That Scouse Git - OMF#9

W&P Range Rover V8 Turbo
Golf GTi 2.0 (Mk2 - proper one)
Golf GTi Mk1 (For Sale)

The level of VED should never be a reason behind buying a car. Work it
out on a weekly basis.....
--
SteveH 'You're not a real petrolhead unless you've owned an Alfa Romeo'
www.italiancar.co.uk - Honda VFR800 - Hongdou GY200 - Alfa 75 TSpark
Alfa 156 TSpark - B6 Passat 2.0TDI SE - COSOC KOTL
BOTAFOT #87 - BOTAFOF #18 - MRO # - UKRMSBC #7 - Apostle #2 - YTC #

I run a late '73 Stag complete with child seat in the front - my 2.5
year old daughter thinks it wonderful.

    http://www.cs.kent.ac.uk/people/staff/mcw/EllaImages/Eighteen%20Months+/slides/DSC_1435.html

At < 3000 miles a year - and with luck on your side - you shouldn't
have any problems. Ours is still on its original engine, gets an oil
change about once a year, and in my experience over the last 19 years
of ownership any troubles with the car are pretty much proportional to
mileage - so nowadays when I only do a thousand or two miles a year we
haven't had any problems for years, and problems in the past have never
been show stoppers.

If you want a glorious-sounding, high torque, easy riding convertible
grand tourer that has enough space in the back for your other half
(or perhaps the child seat if you fit read belts?) then I doubt there's
anything else out there quite like the Stag.  If you want a nimble sports
car then you're best off looking for a different car.

Drop me email if you'd like to know more - but ours isn't for sale :-)

Mark

On Aug 7, 3:14 pm, M.C.Whea...@ukc.ac.uk (Mark Wheadon) wrote:

Thanks for the advice.

The car will generally be used for local trips round town for ferrying
Little one to Swimming and doing the shopping, and then the occasional
blast up the motorway to work on sunny days.

I'm looking for something that requires no significant maintenance
past an oil and water top up as required, and gets a thorough service
before the MoT once a year. So tales of Oil changes at 3 month
intervals weren't fitting in with the low cost motoring ideal.

I'll take it for a spin an see what the Missus thinks, she is much
more of a tourer person than a nippy sports car and often went looked
pale when I was driving the Midget.

There's no reason why a Stag using decent modern oil should need it
changing any more than any other similar age car - so once a year assuming
average miles for a classic will be fine. The timing chain problems are
caused by stretching - and no oil is going to prevent this.

--
*A plateau is a high form of flattery*

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.