trunnion trouble (how to change)

Hello,

1955 Standard 8 front suspension.

I tried to remove the trunnion by undoing the two 'double threaded' nut things but found that the two male threaded parts that remain (within the brass body) are too long to come out of the wishbone. The two halves of the wishbone are attached by the plate that supports the bottom of the coil spring so I don't think I can separate it.

What's the secret!

Thanks,

Matt B

Reply to
Matt
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I'm guessing at;

1/. Remove brake bake plate complete with hose, wheel cylinders and shoes etc. 2/. Support lower wishbone on a jack. 3/. Detach TOP swivel joint from upright casting. 4/. lower jack to decompress spring. 5/. Split bottom wishbone. 6/. Remove bottom trunnion / upright.

After replacing trunnion reverse the above to put it all back together.

Simple really, and I haven't even seen the car....

Reply to
Jerry.

err yes thanks Jerry...but the two halves of the lower wishbone are joined together by the plate that supports the bottom of the coil spring (riveted I think). Is this supposed to be split?

Reply to
Matt

Ah, but you didn't say that...

Are you positive they are riveted, failing that are you sure that the bottom fixing is not a bush, stud and two nuts IYSWIM ?

The problem could be that the stud has rusted to the bush and thus won't come out.

Reply to
Jerry.

Well I have the original workshop manual, and still it took some working out. The first relevant passage i found was "Where is is necessary to replace one of the wishbone arms... the rivets in the spring pan will have to be drilled out and the new arm riveted in position". However that necessitates removing the spring too, which seemed an excessive amount of work, so I looked further. The only other relevant reference is "the outer shackle pin, which

*passes through* the bottom trunnion, can be released by screwing out the screwed bushes". (Your "double threaded nut things" are known as screwed bushes apparently). This implies then that the threads which are too long are not actually part of the trunnion and should therefore be possible to drift through. Howver before you do, check availability of replacements, as I understand that these parts are really difficult to get hold of now and only the Owners Club has stocks.

It's partly for that reason that I intend to customise mine (don't worry, it's a shed and it cost me a fiver - engine runs though). The entire front suspension just bolts to the body, so I'm thinking of swapping it for something modern, either front wheel drive to avoid the propshaft problems, or dropping in a Sierra engine or something like. Just need to work out what will actually fit such a tiny bodyshell!

Reply to
Chris Bolus

The Standard 8/10 front suspension eveolved into the excellent Herald setup, I have wondered how difficult it would be to adapt readily available Herald parts for the 8/10. The vertical link used the same basic casting, with some machining modfication to relocate the grease/oil nipple to the link rather than in the trunnion. The entire Herald front brake assembly was fitted to late 10s and Pennants. Cheers, Bill.

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Reply to
Bill Davies

Chris wrote:

This sounds right - I have no idea how I could re-do these big old rivets, so drifting out the shackle pin would be would be great. Anyone ever done this, or have an old one lying around they could bash for me to see what happens?

Thanks!

Matt B

Reply to
Matt

However on the Herald it bolts to the chassis, whereas the Standard had no separate chassis (quite early for a monocoque) and the suspension bolts to a subframe.

That is something I might look at, as I have both cars and the Herald suspension is currently sitting on the drive...

Reply to
Chris Bolus

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