Tyres - Page 5

they were saying:


<shakes fist at SteveH>
That's the last time I believe him...


Ah, the good ol' British Motor Industry... Why make something simple...?

Shake your fist at Google, it's all their fault for putting it in an
image search for 'Rover P6 rear caliper'. Fuckwits.
--
SteveH 'You're not a real petrolhead unless you've owned an Alfa Romeo'
www.italiancar.co.uk - Ducati 750SS - Honda VFR800 - Hongdou GY200
Alfa 75 TSpark - Alfa 156 TSpark - B6 Passat 2.0TDI SE

steve@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) gurgled happily, sounding much like they
were saying:


A bad workman blames his G(oogle)-cramp.

Hmm, they were simple, when compared to such delights as the front
callipers (that included the handbrake) fitted to Alfa Suds etc....

It's Girling - and was also used by Ford on the Mk IV Zephyrs. Probably
other makes too. I think Rover were sort of forced to use it as Dunlop who
made the brakes on the earlier cars stopped production.

As I said before it works extremely well - the best handbrake I've had on
any car - but like anything slightly more complicated than usual is open
to bodging by those more familiar with simple ones.

--
*If you must choose between two evils, pick the one you've never tried before

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Didn't say otherwise.


--
Conor

I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't
looking good either. - Scott Adams

Except that Adrian and Steve were mislead by a misleading Google link,
of course you would have known that instantly you followed that URL if
you had ever seen (let alone worked) on a P6 rear brakes...

...but that's not a Rover P6 calliper...

That's nothing like a P6 one.

--
*I pretend to work. - they pretend to pay me.

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

It's a swing caliper - I suppose the predecessor of sliding types. The
whole caliper pivots. The pads start out with wedge shaped linings then
gradually become 'square' as they wear down. It has a single piston
internally which acts on a self adjusting mechanism which acts on the
single piston which operates one pad - the pivoting action causing the
other one to grip. Similar really to a sliding design.
 What also worries me about Conor's 'technique' is the back op the caliper
has a tin cover to allow access to the mechanism. And if you put pressure
on that via a g-clamp it would likely distort and allow muck in - the last
thing you want with these.

--
*Why isn't there a special name for the back of your knee?

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Think most here agree with you. ;-)

--
*I love cats...they taste just like chicken.

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Indeed, both of which Conor seems to 'thick' to understand. :~(

On a P6? The calipers are so awkward to get at you spend more time trying
to keep it in place than anything else. The same tool works ok on a Ford
Mk IV which has the same units but outboard.

--
*Don't use no double negatives *

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article

Yes. The piston which operates the pads is mechanical and linked to the
internal hydraulic piston and handbrake mechanism. When the pads are worn
out it requires several turns to re-set it and I don't see how a g-clamp
would be much help.

--
*The first rule of holes:  If you are in one, stop digging!

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I've tried using a G-clamp on them, it doesn't work. You need the proper
  piston winding tool - they're not very expensive now and very useful.

I spent about 3 hours trying to wind in the rear pistons on a new shape
Alfa GTV a couple of years ago, tried every trick and nothing would
shift 'em. Went out and bought a Sykes Pickavant piston windy tool and
it took me less than 5 minutes to sort it. Took 10 mins to do the
caliper on the other side (from wheel removal to replacement) - and that
one was a lot less free. Brilliant things. You can also buy a little
square multi-sided tool for doing the odd one, costs about £5 from most
semi-decent motor factors. If you're doing a lot of them, buy a proper
job - looks like a G-clamp, but works a lot better.

If I'd known about the proper tool when I had my P6, I'd have probably
had a decent handbrake.

--
Pete M - OMF#9
Range Rover V8 Turbo
Range Rover 4.6 HSE
"Professional Petrolhead"

Are you saying the tool you have works on the same principle as the proper
P6 one? I'm saying that was a poor design.

However the proper tool doesn't effect the handbrake on the P6 - you have
to wind back the piston to fit new pads by whatever method. It's seizure
of the mechanism (and wrong cable adjustment) that stops it working
properly. The levers on the calipers *must* come back to their backstops
with the handbrake off for the self adjustment to work. And in perfect
condition this allows more handbrake travel than some MOT testers allow.
So people tighten the cable and f**k up the handbrake. I had to lay the
law down on more than one occasion at MOT time...

--
*Atheism is a non-prophet organization.

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Not the original P6 tool, the one I used was a Sykes Pickavant one which
I think was for the Ford Granada Mk3 rear brakes. Brilliant it was.

Yup, I remember that...

--
Pete M - OMF#9
Range Rover V8 Turbo
Range Rover 4.6 HSE
"Professional Petrolhead"

The Rover one was in fact the Girling tool - and could well have been made
by S-P. It's possible there was a better designed one but I've not seen
it. The snag with the Girling one was it would fall off the piston all too
readily - even although it was meant to lock in place. Which meant you had
to hold it in place with one hand while trying to operate it with the
other. Fine on the bench but not so with the restricted access on the P6 -
and I always loosened the rear crossmember to drop the final drive unit a
bit.

--
*A fine is a tax for doing wrong. A tax is a fine for doing well*

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

<snip>

'We' always disconnected the read drive shafts and dropped the discs
out as well as the pads that were being changed (of course in some
cases the discs were in need of changed also...), this of course was
done on a workshop ramp and with air ratchets etc. available so
working conditions were a lot easier - it's fortunate that I've never
had to grovel under any P6, I do have sympathy for those who have had
to though!

So it's just Doctor Drivel talking about hacksaws again.