winter lay up

Start it often, at least monthly, if feasible drive it. Otherwise move the car at least monthly so the tires don't develop flat spots. If the garage has any way for vermin to get in put mothballs in the engine compartment, interior and boot. Leather interior needs neetsfoot or other lubrication to keep from dryout. They recommend changing oil immediately before although this isn't feasible for me. HTH, Norm

-- "The web has got me caught. I'd rather have the blues than what I've got."

Norm realised it was Wed, 17 Dec 2003 13:38:51 GMT and decided it was time to write:

Don't, unless you can get the engine *thoroughly* hot. If the engine just gets lukewarm, the cooling down after the run will only draw in moisture which will do much more harm than good. If the layup will only be for the winter months, better just leave it.

Drive it for *at least* 15 miles, but only if you have to.

That's what axle stands are for.

I would suggest putting it on axle stands to take the weight off the tyres and leaving the handbrake off. Loosen the spark plugs and put about 10cc of Redex into each cylinder - this will stop the rings sticking. Occasionally (monthly) turn the engine manually by half a revolution so the same valves are not left permanently open and rusting. Other than that it seems as though you already have decent conditions to store the car already - I'm quite envious.... Cheers, Bill.

-- Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for

PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom

Use a Carcoon if you can afford one because it isn't in contact with the bodywork. However dust sheets are better than any impervious material (polythene sheeting or tarpaulin).

Take the plugs out (assuming it's petrol driven), put a teaspoonful of oil in each cylinder and turn the engine over a few times, then replace the plugs. Take the battery out and charge occasionally, or connect to a battery conditioner. Take the weight off the wheels or turn them from time to time. Make sure the handbrake is off.

No. If you aren't going to take it for a drive, then DON'T start it up. Especially, don't start it up often. Letting an engine tick over until its hot will do more harm than good.

On the tyres thing - if you're laying up for a few months only just blow them up nice and hard.

I've come round to thinking that laying up can be more trouble than its worth and try to take the car for a good 10 mile run at least monthly during the winter - theres usually at least one nice dry day a month.

The de-humidified garage is a good idea - I'm a bit wary of the OP's use of the term sheeted up. A decent quality indoor cover will help keep moisture at bay but any old sheets could keep moisture in.

ISTR seeing something in Frost's (or Eastwood's?) catalogue designed to keep moisture out of cylinder bores, etc. You screwed in the things in place of the spark plugs. I'm guessing they were little more than containers filled with silica gel, but could be wrong.

Buy a carcoon from

Best thing I ever bought and have never looked back.

Kindest regards

Tom

Willy Eckerslyke realised it was Wed, 17 Dec 2003 16:56:15 +0000 and decided it was time to write:

No, no, no on your first point. All the damage on the engine is caused on startup. Also, horrible wet things land in the exhaust and rot it. Only start it if you can drive at least 50 miles and get the whole thing warm.

Otherwise agree with you.

Geoff MacK

I've often fancied a Carcoon but was put off as I suspect it rules out any "tinkering" (I do likke to tinker!!!) while the car is laid up. I have an adjoining (reasonably "warm") garage with a big dehumidifier so I've stuck with that and all seems pretty ok.

There's a very similar device to the Carcoon by Airflow. Main difference is that rather than a self supporting bubble, the Airflow system has a frame. This means you can unzip the sides and get in beside your car.

I believe the price is about the same.

Doug.

Have a look at the link below - it's about a Beetle, but the same will apply to most other cars:

-- Howard Rose

1966 VW Beetle 1300 Deluxe 1962 Austin Mini De-Luxe 1964 Austin Mini Super De-Luxe

Them's the ones, ta. I'm a little sceptical that such small quantities of silica gel would have much effect, but at that price they could be worth trying. Or thinking laterally, photographic suppliers sell anti-oxidising spray (eg Tetenal Protectan) to protect half used bottles of developer. They come in spray cans with a little tube that could easily be squirted through plug holes to displace all the oxygen. No oxygen - no rust.

OK, I'm not really suggesting anyone tries this, but since I have a can of the stuff here at work, I may as well test out the theory. So two identical film tubs, a piece of clean steel cut in half, each dipped in seawater and allowed to dry. Then sealed in the tubs over the Christmas hols, one with Protectan, the other with ordinary, everyday air. Results posted in a couple of weeks...

That's OK in theory if you take off all the rocker gear so that all valves are closed, otherwise some of the valves will always be open. Even then, piston rings won't give an absolutely airtight seal, Cheers, Bill.

-- Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for

PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom

Yup, in retrospect I think what I had was an idea looking for an application. If you're going to squirt anything into the cylinders it may as well be oil based, like WD40. Still, I've started my experiment running and am looking forward to seeing the results (if any) next month.