1996 LT4 Oil Presure Problem

I have a 1996 LT4. The analog oil pressure guage drops to zero and the "check guages" light comes on when the car is idling. The needle moves when the car is under acceleration and the light goes away. I've owned the car since 1999 and this is a recent "feature".

There is plenty of fresh 10W-30 Mobil 1 and the oil pressure sensor was replaced and didn't get rid of the problem. The dealer doesn't have any suggestions. Anyone seen anything similar or have any ideas?

Reply to
vette
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As so eloquently stated:

You didn't state mileage. Could be main bearings starting to go. Could be the oil pump starting to go.

Reply to
Tom

Could be really low idle rpm too. Had a 300zx with really low idle rpm that did the same thing. My money's on the oil pump though. Replace it yourself for less than $100. Soon.

Reply to
Zorin Inc.

When the oil pressure drops, do you hear any lifter tapping?? It might be a bitch but if you could get one valve cover off and start the engine, let idle and see if you can see streams of oil coming out of the tops of the pushrods at the rocker arms.

You can also put a mechanical oil pressure test>I have a 1996 LT4. The analog oil pressure guage drops to zero and

Reply to
RicSeyler

On cold start up do you hear any rattling or thumping from the engine? Rod/main knock is very distinctive. If you don't, that's good. What happens if you drain the 10W-30 (5W-30?) and replace it with 20W-50 or else put a can or two of STP in the crankcase? If the oil pressure comes up and stays up, loose bearings are looking good as a cause. With the viscosity modifier in the oil, and on cold start, does the oil pressure go to the peg or almost so? This would suggest the pump is okay if it does and point at the bearings again. If the oil pressure doesn't go to the peg on a relatively cool day, it points at the oil pump.

Whichever it is - bearings or pump, drop the pan on this bad boy sooner than later and swap out both. Zero oil pressure for even a few seconds is bad news. I have not tried this on a late model small block but on early small blocks it was possible to change out rod and main bearings without pulling the engine. The one-piece rear seal may make this impossible. Has anyone reading this swapped bearings in an L98 or LT-1 without pulling the engine or dropping the crank completely?

Charlie Funk

Reply to
Charlie Funk

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