Hood length, yes. Vibration? wouldn't have dared vibrate!
My Dad drove several Packards. In the last one I recall, the crankshaft
weighed close to 400lb. Nine mains. Idle rpm was about the same as a
Jimmy marine diesel. Block casting was so thick that little sound
emerged from the moving parts. Six volt electrical system--gigantic
cable between the battery and the starter!
We used to turn the head bolts out about one full turn and drive them that way
until the head broke loose. No way to pry it loose without special tools, then
grind the valves and you were good to go for another 50K. One of my first cars
was a '48 Packard Electra-matic(?), smooth machine, but one ugly green and
looked like a bath tub upside down.
yea, i miss that long hood and ease of working on the engine. you could
drop a volleyball in there and it would fall to the ground; now, try to drop
a marble in there on new cars. often thought of an elongated '32 Ford with
a straight 8 or 12.
i live in Seattle and i force myself to use the Air Cond 3 times per summer
just to exercise it. however, for the next 3 days they expect it to be in
the 90's here, but i'll just stay home. there would be a lot of benefits to
taking it out.
So, with 2 plugs fouled, there has to be an oil leak or no spark to those
two cyldrs. the coil has to be working right as the other plugs are right.
so, either the wires to them or the dist cap, right? i pray that this is
all that could be wrong.
thanks again for your (continued) help
Hey guys, all kidding aside. Code 42 is a spark timing problem and
deals with what goes on between the ignition module, the ECM and the
harness between them. This code has nothing to do with plugs, plug
wires, HEI coil, etc. -- NADA!
To save about $ 300 in diagnostic time at the dealer or scan time at an
First step, check to make sure the PROM (memcal) is properly seated in
the ECM. Reset the code.
Second step, (if it throws code 42 again). Get out a test lamp and a
good volt-ohmeter and follow the troubleshooting chart for Code 42.
This will pinpoint it, saving a bunch of time and dollars.
If you absolutely must throw parts at the problem, replace the ignition
module. IIRC its about $ 45.
i can see from the chart that 42 is concerned with those 3 items and am
tempted to just buy the IM, but if that were faulty wouldn't that affect all
plugs? clearly something allowed a lot of oil to get to the back left and
absolute sludge to get to the back right plug.
yesterday, when i fired it up it still ran a little rough, but nothing like
before and i shut it down. today, i took it out and wound it up a bit and
burned off the extra oil in the back two cyls and it does run smoother.
when i first started it up, it did bring up the code again, but after
running it, shutting down and starting it again the code went away, for now.
the car has been babied, garaged, and 31K miles. looks new and gets
comments all the time.
Oil often leaks past the valve seals and if you don't drive often it can and
will accumulate....seals can drip and leak regardless of mileage......that
is one of the major problems with little used cars.
When I owned my own shops ( Mustang Motors of NY ) the worst cars we had
were the ones that were women owned and/or babied to dead .( driven only a
few miles each week ).Some really hi mileage vehicles that were run into the
ground ( at that time 100k miles) ran great, burned no oil and required
only minor maintenance...
Also has anyone even considered a compression test...remember those..????
Yes, i agree. little use opens up things.
and oil into a cyl would most likely come from along the valve seals, but
why just to the back ones; same diagnostic problem as with spark module.
running it for a while, gas prices, and chkg the back plugs will tell more.
and i have been looking for my compression gauge.
notice that it took a little burn-out to clear the cyls of oil and run
smoother, but this fluttering of timing happened over night (one plug
really bad) and it does run smoother now at idle. i'ma blama my selfa.
but, i will reset the ALCL, and watch the plugs, look at the dist cap (no
more points and stuff), and when i finish fixing the computer, house, tree,
yard, ego. i will fix the car, again
i did have a datsun pickup 3 yrs ago that had good, equal, req'd compression
and still burned a little oil.
another clue might be the dash gas mileage indicator giving screwy but
constant results a few years ago
9 mpg, 27 mpg and nothing in between
this might suggest ECM
removing the air cond would seem to remove the heater as well, ...so much
i'll run it for a week and take a look at the back plugs again
also, i'll read the instructions again for the meter chks per the manual.
not sure if my 42 err is chart intermittent or not now.
Just when one thinks that things can't get worse (termite mess, big tree
blows down, water damage, HA sues, computer fails, new computer fails, etc)
i checked the codes again as they were intermittent and i now have 42 and
44. Got the meter and manual out in this 100 deg F wx. beer time. sports
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