ABS and Anti Sked Warnings

While doing nothing special the ABS and Anti Sked warnings came on the DIC in my 2001 C5 Coupe.
I tried to clear then using the RESET and that did not work. I took it
to the dealer and they hooked up the Tech II tool (or whatever it is called) and it the LF Door code came up saying the left front wheel sensor was open. I ask them to just clear the codes. They did but as soon as start the vehicle the two warnings showed up again. The Service Writer said this means there really is an issue and I would have bring it back for someone to troubleshoot the wiring and the wheel sensor.
Any one has experience with the LF ABS wheel sensor. I wonder what's involve and why the service writer indicated it may be an expensive repair.
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I can't tell you why it would be an expensive repair other than you have it at a GM dealership. Have you had any tire work done lately? As far as the code I have found that a big percentage of problems on the Corvette are from bad grounds. Check and clean those before you do anything. On top of the frame rail just forward of the front wheels centerline. One screw, many wires each side, I'd have to look up the rest of them but I no longer have a C5 FSM.
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RR on the recent tire work. Just had the two front tires replaced a few weeks ago.
Sure would like to see an IPB showing the screw with many wires attached.
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I have a CD (PDF) with all the parts for '97-'00 but not the, '01 which I do think are the same as the '00. You have a safe email I can send a picture to?
Myself I would go back to the people that did the tire change and ask them to show you why it was not their fault. First question I would ask is if they used the jacking points and the pucks.
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The pdf should be good. Please email to arkay at qsl.net

I called but tires were changed in March so that probably had nothing to do with the problem. Called a non dealer and he has seen the problem before and indicated the sensor is in the wheel bearing assembly and it failure mode is to say it is open. Replacing the wheel bearing assembly sounded expensive $500 to $600.
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Snip

New Timken wheel bearing assembly with sensors $160. Not much harder than changing 2 tires/wheels. Remove wheel, remove brake caliper, disconnect sensor wire, remove rotor, save the clips if you can, remove three socket head cap screws from back of A frame, replace bearing assembly and reverse above.
You can use a wooden block to keep the brake shoes in position and then slide it out as you replace the caliper. Good time to check your brake pads.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1368356,parttype,1636,a,Search%2Bfor%2BROCKAUTO
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk 17089
Check your trouble code before you go throwing parts at it. There is a combination that can get the DIC to show any codes the car has thrown without autotap, etc.
That combination is as follows: Turn the ignition key to the ON position, but do not start the car. Clear any pre-set messages by pressing the RESET button. Hold the OPTIONS button down, and press the FUEL button 4 times. This will get you into the CODES section of the DIC. The computer will automatically display all the codes your car has created. It will cycle through each code every 3 seconds. Any code that ends in H is a code that was registered previously but is no longer an issue. Once the computer has finished going through all of it's codes, press RESET to enter Manual Configuration mode. It should start with a module and show "NO CODES" or "# CODES". To optionally reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays "NO CODES". Press OPTIONS button to go to the next module.
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"Dad" wrote in message Snip

New Timken wheel bearing assembly with sensors $160. Not much harder than changing 2 tires/wheels. Remove wheel, remove brake caliper, disconnect sensor wire, remove rotor, save the clips if you can, remove three socket head cap screws from back of A frame, replace bearing assembly and reverse above.
You can use a wooden block to keep the brake shoes in position and then slide it out as you replace the caliper. Good time to check your brake pads.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1368356,parttype,1636,a,Search%2Bfor%2BROCKAUTO
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk 17089
Check your trouble code before you go throwing parts at it. There is a combination that can get the DIC to show any codes the car has thrown without autotap, etc.
That combination is as follows: Turn the ignition key to the ON position, but do not start the car. Clear any pre-set messages by pressing the RESET button. Hold the OPTIONS button down, and press the FUEL button 4 times. This will get you into the CODES section of the DIC. The computer will automatically display all the codes your car has created. It will cycle through each code every 3 seconds. Any code that ends in H is a code that was registered previously but is no longer an issue. Once the computer has finished going through all of it's codes, press RESET to enter Manual Configuration mode. It should start with a module and show "NO CODES" or "# CODES". To optionally reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays "NO CODES". Press OPTIONS button to go to the next module. _______________________
All of which makes me sort of nostalgic for the days when I could see a motor instead of a bunch of plastic shrouds and a couple of places to add some fluids. At least in my 'Vette I can see the heads, the manifolds , some wires and a bunch of hoses.
I had to have the sunroof fixed under warranty on the '08 Acura TL and they gave me new TL for a loaner. I took a look under the hood and wondered where the engine was.
AJM '93 40th Anniversary coupe, 6 sp (both tops)
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https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1368356,parttype,1636,a,Search%2Bfor%2BROCKAUTO
codes with a bobby pin, ain't life grand?
As far as being able to see some of your engine I can see the ground when I open the hood on the '64. It gets even better on the '50 Chevy, I can throw a cat through there and not hit anything. Trouble codes? We don't need no stinking trouble codes.
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On 8/24/2011 12:37 PM, aRKay wrote:

may be a faulty relay inside the ABS unit. I had mine fail and I used absfixer.com and get it completely resolved for $150. Dealer wanted $1400. Another place to look is the large harness going to the ABS unit and see if the clip-over handle has come loose and you are getting a disconnect there. my two cents. FBNE
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I cleared the codes twice and used two different Tech II tools. They both say the same thing. Left Front Wheel Sensor Open. Per a good tip from Dad I have a LF Bearing Assembly (with wheel sensor) ordered and riding around with FedEX. It may show up on 7-Aug late in the evening. Stay tuned.
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The problem has been fixed. It was the EBCM module and I found a refurbished one that cleared everything.
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