C3 Vette advise and also WTB

Howdee folks,,,,my name is Dan ,,,at some point in the next couple months I plan to buy a vette,,,always wanted to own one and its about time. Now ,,,I must sy my preference has always been the C3 models,,68-82,,,does anyone have any good advise about these models,,I have heard that they had trouble with the rear ends. any one who has advise would be greatly appreciated. NOW,,,,if someone has one you are considering selling and are not in a great rush to get it sold let me knw,,,I am not actually looking for a prject at this point in life but might consider one needing very minor work generally I want a really nice ready to go car,and would be most interested in matching numbers,,,I like Black,,whte,,,yellow,,or red most as far as color,,I will try to ck back at this group but please feel free to email me,,Thanks,,Dan

Reply to
D R
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Reply to
Andy

Check the Internet for more information. Some places to check:

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Rear ends on the '63 to '79 are basically the same. They were all designed with the load from a 327 and skinny tires. However, as the engines got bigger, the vehicle load got heavier, and the tire width (and thus traction) became more, the rear end became a weak link.

That said, you do have to abuse them to break them. I have broken two in about 30 years. One was in a car I bought, and when opened, the goo of STP was obvious, which was probably someone's attempt to quiet the popping Positraction clutches, and that only made it worse and broke everything. The other was in racing behind a 427. Wonder why that one broke?

Rear wheel bearings are an issue. However, the best bet is to have the trailing arms rebuilt by a professional such as Van Steel, Baer, and a couple of others who specialize in these for about $300 a side and never have to worry about them again.

After that, they have typical Chevrolet problems, which aren't many, and being typical Chevrolet, you can fix them anywhere and for half the price of anything else on the road.

Typically, buy the best you can afford. Bargains usually are not. One only needing paint for $6000 isn't if a good one is for $9000, because it will cost you an average of $4000 for paint, and often more than that.

Even if you get a bargain and end up cheaper, what is the price of buying and driving today versus buying, fixing, and not driving until a year or two from now?

Reply to
Tom in Missouri

Dan, Email me for a complete checkout list on a C3 Corvette. It will show you want to look for in terms of potential problem areas. Dave

Reply to
dave

Rearends : I have the factory 12 bolt and am 150 h.p. greater than stock for a 1970 BB (390 h.p. stock / 540 h.p. now) . No problems with my rearend at all. Torque increase is approx. 100 ft.lbs more too. (500 stock / 600 now) . The saving grace is that the rear tires dont hook up ; if they did , id be in trouble im sure.

Gearbox's : No problems with my M21 stock 4 speed either.

In fact, no drivetrain problems at all.

Had a problem with rear main seals leaking , but corrected that with going back to a stock oil pump and positive crankcase evacuation via the Header Collectors .

If you can, find a decent BB and it will go up in price quicker , except perhaps for an 1970 - 1971 LT1 SB motor.

Before you buy one, have it checked out by a Vette Mechanic who knows this generation Vette.

Dave

Reply to
dave

Had mine go out on a 71 454 years ago -- twice in 60k miles. Often wondered if there was a better solution.

Reply to
tww

It is a lot of fun too. You should read some sites that tell you all abou the vettes history. These need not be enormous. Can't expect someone to re-write it out here. Then once you know the basic facts, then these posts make (more) sense and you can get specifics. For instance what year was 4 wheel disk brakes standard (and what thereafter). What year did fuel injection come in (and what thereafter). What if you missed by a year. You owe it to yourself. These types of things are basic facts, you read them once, and you should 'member 'em..

Reply to
bent

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