I have a 2000 Corvette in which the driver side window has been working
on and off again. Last fall it quit working, then started working
again before I put it up for the winter, then when I got it out last
week, it was still working properly. Now it's not working again. Has
anyone else had similar problems?
It could be the switch. I hear a clicking sound though when I press
it, as if a relay was firing or something like that. Is there anyway
to try and fix this myself? I had the passenger side power window
replaced already and that set me back $500, so if I can do it myself
that would be excellent.
Try slamming the door, or slamming the door while holding the window button
(from the inside <g>). Seems to be a common problem which sometimes this
fix will work, sometimes a power window motor needs replaced. Know idea if
this is the case on your car, just one that has worked for others.
I've had (still have this issue). When the window isn't working, the lights
in the power window switch aren't on either.
I've been able to trace it to the harness in the door. Pushing on the
rubber boot (the one that covers the wires coming from the car and into the
door) seems to relieve the symptoms. I've taken the door and bottom of the
dash apart to find an exposed wire. Taped it and it seemed to work fine for
a while. Now it's back. Seems like it does this more when the weather
changes. I bought a used harness off of ebay and will be replacing it soon.
First I have to get the steering column unlocked though. It got me last
night. Vette is stuck at the bar-- wife is P.O.'ed at home.. ended up having
more than just one beer. Good excuse as any I guess..
Also, when this conditions occurs, it would light up every message on the
DIC. Be carefull so you dont get stuck with this far from home. I'm not
100% sure but I think it would shut the car down when it got real bad. The
bad part of the wire was actuallly inside the car---not inside the door(to
save you from maybe taking the door apart). It's a clear "tube" with a wire
in it. It goes into a harness under the dash. At the end of it, had about
1/4 inch of exposed wire. At the time, I made the assumption that the
exposed part of the wire would short under the dash. The dealer didn't want
to deal with this since it didn't happen all of the time. On the other
hand, hopefully, they'll be able to duplicate the locked steering column
condition....maybe they'll lend me a C6 while they have my C5.
I have a 2003 with a similar problem. When it sits in the garage, the
windows work fine. When it sits in the sun all day, windows intermittently
don't work. After 15 minutes with the AC on, they work again. In the shop
last summer 7 times. They replaced EVERYTHING and by fall (cooler weather),
they seemed to have had it fixed. Now with the warmer weather, here I go
I know this sounds crazy, BUT it seems like the problem comes back (in your
case) when the car gets hot.
I never really paid too much attention to the temp., but I did notice it
happening in the spring and fall when there could be 20-30 degree temp.
swing from day to night time. I really think its a short in one of the
wires. Like I said before, the door harness is where I found an exposed
wire. It was in a clear tube and attached to the harness on the inside of
the car. (dont take door apart) I wish I could describe it better..but I
think you get the idea. This is a 3 cent repair job. Although, if you take
it somewhere they may replace the entire electrical system before they find
this by accident. Who would think this sort of thing could be caused by a
Yeah, thank you guys for all your input! This weekend I'll take the
multimeter to those wires and see if I can find out if there is a short
or not. What a freaking pain. Last time I took my car in for the
passenger window. Now the window rattles when I go over a medium sized
bump. And whistles when the air conditioner is turned up high. Anyone
know if I can fix something like that myself? I know it didn't do that
before I took it in.
Thanks again for your help!
They're not that hard to adjust. The C5 rear tip in adjusters for the
windows are located right behind the red reflectors on the door panels. You
DO NOT have to remove the door panel to get to it. The reflector is held in
by two tabs at the top and a spring steel clip at the bottom. Pry up from
the bottom carefully to remove it and gain access to the rear tip-in
adjustment screw. Back off the lock nut (10 mm) and turn adjusting threaded
rod (4 mm hex head) ccw to increase tip-in, cw to decrease. No need to hold
the 18mm window regulator pulley inside the door.
The rubber grommet under the door at the rear gives access to the
aforementioned 18mm, and a height adjuster (with the window rolled down).
Front tip-in and height adjustment is under the rubber grommet at the front.
Similar to the rear, but entire assembly slides transversely with the body
of the car, you'll see the slot and see what I am trying to say.
I can't tell you how many hours I've spent trying to repair mine. My doors
sound like an old Camaro when I close them.
I think I'm narrowing it down to the door panels being loose. I've replaced
the plastic pins on the panel side,
but I think I need to replace the female sides also.. Any ideas??
> I have a 2000 Corvette in which the driver side window has
> been working
> on and off again. Last fall it quit working, then started
> again before I put it up for the winter, then when I got it
> out last
> week, it was still working properly. Now it's not working
> again. Has
> anyone else had similar problems?
Same problem on my 99 convertible. About 1 year ago the drivers window
quit. It never started back by itself but I figured it may be a "dead
spot" of something similar. I let me mechanic take it for some
routine stuff and he told me he just popped off the door trim, removed
the Bose speaker box and gave the motor a pop with the hammer. Worked
fine for almost a year. So this year I took it off my self, plugged
the switch back in, pushed the button and popped the motor with the
hammer pretty lightly actually and there it goes working fine again.
I have heard a lot about this problem. Seems like there is definitely
a fault with this motor and maybe GM should look into recall instead
of running bulletins that say, replace the motor for $500.00 some
Hope this saves you and others a lot of bucks.
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It might just be a "sweet spot" in the gear. I've had the same problem with
both my '77 Corvette and my 1985 Bronco. A tap with the hammer usually buys
me anywhere from one to two years with each of them. Weird.
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