Re: 2008 squeaking

I have the transparent top that has been quiet so far by just latching it down properly and keeping the seals clean and treated. Your top may just need an adjustment and the fix that has been used on some of them that have squeaked, not a hard job, told you about it before, did you do anything?
As for the brakes, did you break then in properly? Most likely not, after all it's a $50K car and it can be driven any old way the owner wants, right? My guess is that you have glazed the pads by improper break in diving. Simple job to remove the glaze and then break in your brakes properly. I'm nearing 40K miles on my C6 and they are starting to show some wear but I have never heard a brake squeal/squeak yet.
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">OK this is now driving me nuts. I have a 2008 Vette. I have a clear top. It squeaks. There's been a GM fix for this to reduce the squeaking. I've had that applied but the squeaking appears more with hot weather. I live in Arizona. It's hot now! I get a lot of squeaking. What can I do to get this fixed?<BR><BR>Also, my breaks squeak. They've squeaked forever. Am I wrong to think a &gt; $50K vehicle should not be squeaky?!?<BR> <DIV class=moz-signature>-- <BR><A href="http://defaria.com ">Andrew DeFaria</A><BR><SMALL><FONT color=#999999>A clear conscience is usually the sign of a bad memory.</FONT></SMALL> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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A GM fix is a paid activity for the dealer and they could care less if it fixes your problem as the next visit under warranty is also paid, get the drift here? Plus they have had more than one "official" fix. You only need to be observant here not a mechanic. When you remove the top look for residue where surfaces have rubbed together or places that hard surfaces can come in contact during body flex. Use a proper weather seal lubricant such as a wax stick. Adjust the mount and lock downs to provide proper space between the chaffing parts. Note that there have been some end play in the clamp rollers that have created the problem. The fix will be simple when you find it and much easier than a trip to the dealer. Tip, cut a small piece of flexible plastic from a container, like a corn oil bottle, and put it in between the surfaces that may look like they are the problem when you replace your top and then it can be moved to find the actual offending spot.
As for the brakes there is and always has been a break in method for them. Most of the time on a new car that kind of instruction is ignored by the driver and most likely not even mentioned by the dealer. Simply put - No continuous hard braking for the first 1,000 miles. Used to be 4/500 miles but the harder pads need more bedding time. Break in is mentioned on page 2-19 of my owners manual but only for the first 200 miles, very optimistic. My guess would be that they did not "cut the rotors" as they have little material to spare. Best guess is that they cleaned glaze off the surface without cutting them. What that did for you was correct only a portion of the problem, the pads still have a glazed surface to make them screech. So in a short time the glaze is re-established on the rotor and it back to screeching all the time. I have cleaned both rotors and pads with an abrasive but you need a high pressure clean and then a solvent clean to make sure you don't leave any abrasive in the pads. Then bed them properly and the screeching is gone. I have never needed to install shims but now some ceramic pads do come with them already installed.
Only one GM vehicle has had a brake problem for me and I've owned my share of them. Under warranty I would take it back in and when I got it back it ran fine, for a while. Then the noise/vibration would return. I finally got tired of taking it to the dealer and remover the rotor that I thought was the problem. On the back side where it was out of sight there was an obvious hard spot in the cast rotor. That hard spot was the reason the brakes were glazing. I replaced the rotors and cleaned the pads, that was 3 years ago and I have had no more problems but am still amazed how smooth and quiet the brakes are (Power Slot). My cost $160 and no dealer headache, waiting on the service dept. or dropping it off and or listening to them tell me how I wasn't driving it right, geeze, get a life lady......
Yes, it would be nice if they would advise you of the proper way to drive on new brakes but it is much more profitable to just skip it and keep you ignorant of the procedure. Take a look...... http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman"></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman">As for the brakes, did you break then in properly? Most likely not, after all it's a $50K car and it can be driven any old way the owner wants, right? My guess is that you have glazed the pads by improper break in diving. Simple job to remove the glaze and then break in your brakes properly. I'm nearing 40K miles on my C6 and they&nbsp;are starting to show some wear but&nbsp;I have never heard a brake squeal/squeak yet.</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>I'm not a mechanic. I was not told to do any "break in" or brakes. I've never done any break in of brakes on any new car I've ever owned and no new car that I've owned ever squeaked this much. If break in is required then the purchaser should be informed. Additionally I took the car in and mentioned the problem. The dealer said they "cut the rotors" and that helped - but only for a few weeks. At another service appointment I mentioned it again and they were like "Well that's just how they are some times and we can do a complete break job if you like". If removal of the glaze and break in is required then shouldn't the service tech perform that when informed of the problem?!?<BR> <DIV class=moz-signature>-- <BR><A href="http://defaria.com ">Andrew DeFaria</A><BR><SMALL><FONT color=#999999>Friends help you move. Real friends help you move bodies.</FONT></SMALL> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Sorry, you have been doing so well without my interference, good luck on getting GM or any brake manufacture to develop a proper braking system that doesn't need "breaking in". There is a simple answer to your problem but...........
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Can't disagree with you more, and it's not like giving you tires and telling you to put them on yourself, what an uninformed analogy. By the way, tires should be broken in also. Most all cars and brakes should be broke in to some extent and state the same in their manuals. You didn't read those in the other cars if you have purchased them new either so I'm not surprised that you didn't read or act on the instruction given in the Corvette manual. There are people and yourself included that will buy a new car and pay little or no attention to instructions in the manual about the break in period. By the fact that they just take it easy, because of it being new, gets most past the brake break in with no problem. Then there are bone headed people that think that it must prove it's self right out of the shute. No miracle involved, just the way it is wheather you like it or not.
What you just said is that it would be fine with you to buy your new Corvette with 200/1,000 miles on it so you wouldn't have to read the manual.
Sorry to have bothered you with the facts, as you don't accept them anyway, so good luck butting your head aginst the walls in your future.

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Wall, butt, butt, butt. Glad you pointed out that I got whether wrong, but then no one called you on calling a brake a break, many, many times, BUT then you are an OS kernel expert, what more could I ask for? Your limited intelligence requires you to be right in this brake problem but you're not and you never will be as long as you ignore the facts.
Grow up child...
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Sorry to have bothered you, thought I could help, I was wrong. Does that help?
You have been a treat, I look forward to the introduction of the new cars that have had their brakes and drive train broken in before they are delivered. They may already have those and call them "used cars" by law. Maybe it would be easier to just read the owners manual, nah, what fun is that, more attention can be gained by bitching about it.
One last thing on this issue, tell the group when you get your top and brakes fixed, it would be helpful to others that may have similar issues to know the cure. There are people that can benefit from that information and is the reason some of them read this group.
Good luck to you and your service dealer.
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Dad wrote:
<<Sorry to have bothered you, thought I could help, I was wrong. Does that help?
Snip
<PLONK!
<-- <Andrew DeFaria <Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
Not again, how will I survive?
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Hmmm .... < http://clearscm.com/ :(
Suggest take it done until it gets fixed. Needs more work than the squeaky top on the '08 !
-- pj
Dad wrote:

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I dont think we should be fighting....first off dad was trying to help you andrew...you guys disagreed and then just got smart...I don't know who is right but we should be trying to help each other the best we can not just fighting...haha I don't know if you guys will take this seriously but I'm just saying you shouldm't get into that much of a fight
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Don't understand not trying to help yourself when a problem comes up. On the other hand I'm short on understanding everyone's abilities or lack there of. That's one reason I have kept in the world of things, if you know what you're doing you know what the "thing" is doing. With people, not so much. The only real catch to that is that those "things" were made by people.
Is Double C 33 a bra size? ;-))
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.

Haha, no its not a bra size. It's my nickname...my first name starts with a C and so does my last name..and 33 was my football number. Haha i get that a lot though.
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I some times use Google to check past posts to see where I went wrong because of my way of offering help. Checked Andrews profile and got this message.
This account has been banned because it violated the Google Groups Terms Of Use.
May not have read or comprehended the manual/terms of use or may not apply to him?
type="cite">I dont think we should be fighting....first off dad was trying to help you andrew...you guys disagreed and then just got smart...I don't know who is right but we should be trying to help each other the best we can not just fighting...haha I don't know if you guys will take this seriously but I'm just saying you shouldm't get into that much of a fight<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>I never said he was wrong with his facts but when I'm attacked I attack back. That's how I roll. He's now permanently on the ignore list so I don't give a fuck what what he says any more because I'll never see it again. <BR> <DIV class=moz-signature>-- <BR><A href="http://defaria.com ">Andrew DeFaria</A><BR><SMALL><FONT color=#999999>You know how it is when you're walking up the stairs, and you get to the top, and you think there's one more step? I'm like that all the time.</FONT></SMALL> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Dad wrote:

Hey Dad,
It wasn't you. However your roots are in an era when there were distinct break-in instructions that came with all new machinery (cars and otherwise). As such, you appreciate that what is done in the first 50-200 miles can have long term effects on the powertrain and running gear.
You may be expecting too much of the post WWII generation with regard to the care and feeding of new gear. Perhaps if you had conducted a short course in, "The care and feeding of new machinery - 101" he would have understood where you were coming from and what questions to ask when on the delivery paddock at a new car dealership.
That said, I've also been plonked, for offering some constructive but pointed criticism of nav-menu errors in his website design, (found when I decided to, "find out who this guy is anyway.")
A week or so ago, when the major DoD network hacks were taking place, similar Google Groups warnings appeared on websites that weren't Google related (no Google advertising etc.) So, that warning might have been just a technical glitch.
OTOH, this gent did profess a propensity for strong responses... "...when I'm attacked I attack back. That's how I roll." ...f***...
Flames and monosyllabic expletives don't fly well with many group moderators. They take definitive action to quiet the waters. Google's action may have been triggered by a moderator complaint. -- pj
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a firebrand but still thought some more information might be of help for his brakes and top problem. As has been pointed out to me many times I was wrong. Just because I want to be a dick this time I'll say both could be cured so they never returned for $0 in very little time.
Still there is that burdensome owners manual that could be there for a reason.. Plus every brake pad/shoe manufacturer I know wants some bedding done on a new brake system even today with better disk/shoe material, let alone back in the '40s.
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I see he doesn't understand news groups and better than he does brakes, and yes, your account is banned by Google. As you say you don't need Google to be seen and read (heard) on news groups even in HTML.
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