The security light on my '98 has recently started to stay on after I start the engine. What it does is come on after I have been driving a few miles. What kind of problem would this indicate? My alarm arms and disarms fine.
Thanks,
John
I would like to here an answer to this as I have the same problem...
What code does it set?
None for me It is just on...
if its on ? it usually throws up a code. there are so many things that can cause the security light to come on..
Check to see if the resistor is "squished" on your key. It may be ok to start for a while but then if that's the case you'll be dealing with the column lock bug. Try using your other key and see what happens.
-Stan
I have new keys but sometimes with any of my keys new and old I turn the key and dash light go seat moves but it will not crank so I pull it out put it in and try again and agin untill it starts and other time it starts the first time no problem... My understanding this has been the nature of this car for atleast 4 years... when the dealer did the column they said the the tumbler was worn some but the electrical was good, They did not open up housing they just ran test on the wires...
if your tumblers were worn ? the lock would probably not want to turn sometimes. or you would have to jiggle your key.
try cleaning the contacts in your lock. use WD-40. do NOT use graphite..
my2¢
I do have to jiggle it... Thanks for the tip on WD-40
do NOT use wd-40. it isn't for locks. it is a water displacement material, and the leftovers will gunk up locks.
the cause of the jiggle is either your key, lock or a little of both.
I would first try and have your key cut back to factory specs. (just a plane ole cheap mechanical key will do) you will then have a key with NO ware, just like when it was new. (all ya want to see is if it helps eliminate the jiggle) I would say 90% of the time, re-cutting the key back to specs will solve the jiggle problem.
remember, the wd-40 will not help the jiggle :-) but it will clean out your lock..
happy holidays
"Charles Spitzer" wrote in message news:dlvmi4$3gb$ snipped-for-privacy@transfer.stratus.com...
wrong !!! it is great for cleaning out locks.
correct...
wrong again, wd washes itself with every use.
been using it all my life and for the lsat 24+ years as a Locksmith....
No code is displayed. Also, the security light hasn't come on since.
If that's the case you kind of know your answer... I had a similar problem in a New York parking garage. They put a gizmo onto your key which compressed the resistor. The dash would light up, but the car wouldn't crank. After being stuck there for 8 hours, a locksmith came out and cut me a new key for $110 on the spot. Car fired up just fine. Sounds to me like your problem is in the resistor being read by the car. I just had a key cut at the dealer for $40 (using my VIN not the old key). I'd try that first. Then replace the tumbler if it's worn out. Seems hard to believe though. I have roughly 80,000mi on each of my cars and the tumblers work fine.
-Stan
I have over 100,000 miles on mine but I think I will go have a key cut by the dealer because when I got the car they only had one key and it was the original one very worn so I had 2 more made but they where cut from that key so I'll try the dealer...
Thanx
Another option that might be more reasonable is having a master locksmith cut a "key to code." Rather then make a copy of your key, the locksmith will measure the depth of each notch in your key, determine what the original depth was for each pin position, then cut a new key that will match the original. Like a key-to-code from the dealer this will slow down tumbler wear in the lock. ... PJ
Dealer can only help you if the code is available. if its not ? go to your local locksmith. He can read your key and cut it back to specs.
How would he know what the original specs were? By measure how far the tumblers inside the lock cylinder move before bottoming out or something of the such?
the locksmith should be able to just look at the bitting (cut-depths) on the old key and read the correct factory bitting. then, with the assistance of a code cutter, transfer the correct factory bitting to a new key blank.
g'day
-- why ya think they call me "Key" ?
The the big problem with copying a key is that slight errors in the copy machine (or operator error in seating the "originaL" key) cause the notches in the key to be a couple of 1000s of an inch in error. Ditto the effect of wear--particularly for the shallower notches. This gets worse at places like KMart, or Home Depot.
To make a "key-to-code" my locksmith measures each notch and, knowing what the depth should be for each of the 10 or so different notch depths, picks the closest notch value for each pin position. He then uses a "nipper" sort of tool to cut notches in a new blank to the precise depth. He then smooths the transitions between each notch. This is as precise as an original key from the factory.
I once had a copy made from a copy that was so far in error that it wouldn't always work and was probably chewing up the pins inside the lock. The key to code wouldn't work at all. Locksmith tnen adjusted one notch depth and cut another key -- worked perfectly.
Key can probably explain this with fewer words as I don't know the vocabulary to describe each of the above items.
PJ
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