Where can I buy stainless steel bleeder screws ?
I have tried all the usual places like Napa, AutoZone, PepBoys etc, but no joy.
I have seen this website, but this is massively overpriced:
Where can I buy stainless steel bleeder screws ?
I have tried all the usual places like Napa, AutoZone, PepBoys etc, but no joy.
I have seen this website, but this is massively overpriced:
check these out never tried them but they sound like a cool deal
JD
Thanks to all who replied.
I don't want Speed bleeders. They are over priced and I don't care about the valve technology built into them. I don't care to pay $6+ each for stailess bleeder screws (I want to put them on 3 others cars plus my C4).
I just want a standard bleeder made out of stainless steel (even brass would do). I don't want a bleeder screw that will rust into the caliper and break-off 10 years down the road (I live in a climate where salt is used heavily during the winter which produces a lot of corrosion on older vehicles).
Some company has to make standard stainless (or even brass ) bleeder screws. I just can't find out who/where.
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I already showed you
ID: 11622 Name: Set of 4 Caliper Plugs Desc: Stainless Plugs or Bleeder Screws Corvettes - 1965-82 More Info Price: $7.95
Check out this link. They are $3.50 each.
You are correct, but what I failed to mention at the beginning of the thread is that I have a C4 (M10 X 1.0 thread on the screw). All the inexpensive (non- speed bleeders) stainless bleeders are for C2 & C3 (5/16 X 24 thread on the screw). So I'm kinda screwed (no pun intended).
Definate vital info there
This do you any good?
expensive but..
Well..... it sure could take the place of the banjo bolt that attaches the caliper to the brake line. But it's almost the same price as the over-priced speed bleeder.
I'm th>Definate vital info there
I almost put those up as an idea but I have no idea how they would do compared to the stainless. If you do try them let us know how they work out.
JD
If you ever had an aluminum intake and seen how it is to remove the thermostat housing bolts after several years, you know that aluminum and steel don't mix. They would probably seize faster than the plain bleeder screws. Plus aluminum is softer and more likely to break when you try to remove them later.
The simplest solution is not to ignore the bleeders for 10 years. If you are checking them and flushing the fluid every few years, you should be fine. If you simply crack a bleeder each time to remove the tires for rotation or changing or every year, you should be fine also.
Or do like Bob suggested. You can also buy some of the rubber nipples like for blocking carb vacuum tubes and slip them over the bleeders with a bit of grease.
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