1995 Dodge Intrepid 3.5L Engine Control Module fuse blowing

My 1995 Dodge Intrepid blows the 20 amp fuse that coresponde the the Engine controlr in the power distribution box when cranking the engine over, only
when starter is engauged. I had the battery neg. cable off put in new fuse in put cable back turnned ign. switch on off on off on got the code 12 telling me that the battrey had been unhooked and code 55 for end of scan. So no codes show any thing bad but if you crank the engine the fuse blows. Could this be a bad starter or alt? If anyone has anyyone other idea please lets hear it.
Thanks
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Engine
Well if you just turn the key to the run position and the fuse doesn't blow you can eliminate the Generator, then turn the key to the start position and it blows........a very good chance that your starter solenoid is shot
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
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Glenn, Thank you for the response. If the solenoid is bad and causing the problem would the starter still be able to crank the engine over? Because it does but it seems as though it drains the battery faster than it should.
Thanks
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should.
You may get an intermittent click if it were the solenoid, but if the solenoid was not working the starter would not turn at all
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Ok it's not the starter it was replaced the fuse still blows only when you engage the starter not when the key is on. Any other idea of what the problem is with this thing?
Thanks
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You need to find out what is on that circuit that is blowing besides the starter.
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Ok, here is the cause and the solution. My son put a wrench on the cam sprocket drivers side to rotate the engine in doing so he losened the bolt and threw the cam out of time, then computer caused the fuse to blow. Solution buy the timing fixtures that bolt to the back of the head and follow the cam timing procedure.
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You lost me on this one!! either you started another thread or I deleted mine cause they were to old, what are you talking about? and how would a computer blow a fuse buy turning the cam shaft?
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
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Cam and crank sensors not in sink. Ok it is my fault because I failed to tell the hole story so let me go by the numbers
1. My car was running and driving fine except after driving down the interstate when you would get off the thing would over heat, so ten year old car I decided that I would have the son put in new radiator and a new water pump and new timing belt, air condenser and air drier because your there. 2. The son got down to where he need to align up the timing marks and he made a poor choice putting a wrench on the bolt that holds the sprocket to the cam shaft on the drivers side of the car, it broke loose causing the camshaft and the sprocket to be miss aligned. The sprocket sits on a D shape on the camshaft but the D shape will not align the two, many degrees of slop. It is necessary to buy fixture plates that bolt to the back of the heads to align the sprockets to the camshafts and use a dial indicator to find top dead center of the # one cylinder If this alignment is not correct the 20 amp fuse in the box under the hood that corresponds to the PCM blows. 3. But I did not know 2 above and went on a wild goose chase replaced the coil plugs and the PCM with one from a junk yard being very careful to get the right one matching the numbers and making sure the PCM came off a car without VTSS. The fuse was still blowing. 4. Finely just taking it all apart again aligning the sprockets and camshafts properly putting it back to gather hit the key started right up no blown fuse. 5. But now there is a new problem. 6. The car runs great for about forty or forty five minutes and shuts off.. Any ideas? It was sitting running not being driven. 7. Had to remove the battery cables and let it set for ten minutes put cables back it starts back and shuts off in the same amount of time.
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Sorry the thought to be problem solved is not please disregard the previous. The 20 amp Fuse in B has starting blowing again.
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Lost me here?? must be an old post I deleted
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