1995 Plymouth vorager

The brake padel went to floor, I have changed the brakes pads & shoes.I bleed the brakes the pedal came up until I started the car than the pedal
went back to the floor.
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On Thu, 09 Nov 2006 17:11:54 -0500, Billz514 wrote:

This is a weird problem. I was looking for a replacement for my '92 AWD, and ran across a '94 a friend who owns an independant garage had. Alas, it wasn't AWD and a Short one at that.
BUT, it was his GF's van, and she didn't want to drive it like that with a bunch of kids.
He replaced EVERYTHING in it, front to rear, and this guy is thorough! They bled it and flushed it twice, new Master Cylinder, new wheel cylinders, new lines, new calipers, etc, and still it went to the floor every so often. I drove it about 10 or 12 miles, and every 3rd or 4th time I hit the brakes, the pedal would go to the floor, but it would always stop.
He never did figure it out. He's driving it as a beater (although, except for the brakes, it was in good shape), but the pedal still occasionally goes to the floor!
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I read somewhere that ABS unit has specieal bleading otherthan regular classical bleeing which are done from tires. I bet you still have air in the system. Hachiroku wrote:

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I read somewhere that ABS unit has specieal bleading otherthan regular classical bleeing which are done from tires. I bet you still have air in the system. Hachiroku wrote:

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I read somewhere that ABS unit has specieal bleading otherthan regular classical bleeing which are done from tires. I bet you still have air in the system. Hachiroku wrote:

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shoes.I
pedal
it
a
time
except
Threes an echo in here
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On Fri, 17 Nov 2006 13:06:43 -0500, maxpower wrote:

Interesting. What is the bleeding procedure for ABS?
I did a complete flush 'n fill on the brake system, and it's working well. The ABS doesn't often work, but when it does, I can feel it much, much worse than when it was working before I did the brakes. (When coming to a complete stop, just before the vehicle stops, there is a pulsating in the pedal and a very slight shuddering from the front)
When the ANTI-LOCK light is glowing on the dash, the brakes work fine! Perfect, in fact!

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That's bad.
ABS checks all the signal from all tires and compare them if anyofthem are different. I guess one of your sensors act just before stop which let the brake go. Try to find the bad one.
My friend had the similar problem. Just before the car stops, it lets the brake go and apply again. In his case, it was the ABS controlar.
WhenABS light is on, it means ABS is not working so your brakes works like any classical system. I suggest you check the sensors first, adn then move to expensive parts liek ABS controller/computor.
Hachiroku る車ハチロク wrote:

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On Mon, 20 Nov 2006 17:10:48 -0800, uccoskun wrote:

Hmmmm...me thinks I'll pull the fuse first! It runs just fine without the ABS. It (ABS) was working OK (just) last winter.
It's not worth putting a lot of money into it. If I can limp it without the ABS, that's OK with me.
I'm going to let it ride for a few weeks. It gets put on the road in November and comes off in April. If it straightens itself out (from disuse) fine, if not, I'll disable it. My last one had a bad ABS system, too, ands I didn't know it because somebody pulled the lamp out of the warning system! I drove that one 10,000 miles with no problem!

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if you live somewhere with cheap junk yard, and you are mechanically inclined, i suggest you keep ABS working in car. They usually charge 20-30 dollars for ABS control and computor, and nearly free for sensors. I know putting the parts in is alittle bit pain but my experince tells me abs is importat.
One of my sensor on GMC Safari died and I feel the brakes locking all the time expecially on snowy illinois days. Next spring I changed that sensor and it is fine.
if i donot recall, on 91 caravans, ABS are recalled. Maybe soembody can share their experience with the problem, symtoms of those cars.
good luck.
Hachiroku ハチロク wrote:

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You must have some good junkyards around...the ones near me want $20+ for a piece of plastic or a radio plug. I'd hate to guess what they'd want for something worth real money...
Wesley

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On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 14:39:37 +0000, Wesley wrote:

LOL! The funny thing is, they probably want $20 for ANYTHING! I've seen that before!
There are some decent ones around here; one has really decent prices and will DELIVER if they are coming to the area! How cool is that?!
They're about 35 miles away, with no direct route, so it really helps to get things delivered.

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I donot pay anythign for sensors, plugs, wires etc at Coultas A.R. at Danville illinois. they are cool guys. they charge only some big stuff like alternator, starter, taillgihts engine kinda stuff. Funny, they asked 35 for driver window, but 25 for complete door.
try to find a cheap self service junk yard of a small town. they are always reasonable.
Hachiroku ハチロク wrote:

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On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 16:25:21 -0800, uccoskun wrote:

(He's asking me to find a junkyard! LOL!!! I pretty much HAVE a junkyard in my backyard!!!)
All kidding aside, I have this kind of a relationship with a local that has a large variety of Toyotas hanging around. He does charge me for everything, but $5 for a sensor, $5 for various interior pieces, and $20 for a full taillight assembly. The most I paid was $35 for a door handle, a radiator and a couple other pieces!
Yeah, it's nice to have friends in the 'Recycled Parts' business!
Now, if I could just find one for my Van! There is another guy about 35 miles from here that has a lot of Chryslers and has decent prices, too. A taillight for my LHS was $25, $30 if they pulled it. I got out there in the afternoon (they had just gotten the car that morning) and they pulled it and sold it to me for $20. Cool!

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