1997 neon drive problems when warmed up

i have a 1997 dodge neon that has a rough idle cold and stall when warm and a rough idle we replaced the computer the coil pack the fuel pump the shut down relay fuel pump relay cam sensor throttle body with a new
air idle control both o2 sensors map sensor and it still does it and we did the timing belt 2 month's a go any help would be nice
thanks
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good scan tool check it out. You have to start with the basics!!
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
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my father in law is a chrysler machanic and he told me to do one thing at a time and that is what i didand we started with the basics he is at a stand still as i am with no answers for the way it runs maxpower wrote:

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compression and check all sensor values.Why would you replace the coil pack and fuel pump if the basic check showed good? Have the system tested for fault codes (and clear them) after all the ones you put in by poking around, then monitor the sensors with a scan tool.
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
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we only had one fault code it was 51 and all the thing i did would relate to a lean problemand now there is no code coming upjust 12 and 55 maxpower wrote:

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the only code that came up was 51 and all things would lead to the problem of 51 thats why i did what i did and now there is no code coming up at all and it still runs crummy maxpower wrote:

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getting ready to show up, take it out and run it for about 10 miles and recheck to see what fault codes have been set
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we did that last night and a code of 52 come up and that is a rich condition and we can not figure why that is it keeps going between rich and lean any help maxpower wrote:

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The code is being set because the 02 sensor is detecting not enough oxygen at the sensor (thus setting a rich fault)!!!!!Have you checked to see what the engine vacuum is? (basic check being throwing parts at it) It should be at least 17 inches of vacuum at idle. If not. The map sensor will tell the computer that the engine is under a load and to give more fuel....and giving more fuel at idle is not good!! You could have a plugged cat-converter, worn out engine, injector stuck,map sensor electrical/vacuum problem, fuel pressure regulator (once again Basic test.What was fuel pressure reading at idle?) You said you did the timing belt 2 months ago......is this when the problem started or did you do the belt to try and fix this problem?
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
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no the car ran good until 2 weeks ago is when it all started and the only thing i did not replace was the cat we were looking at that next the motor has 250000 on it and it ran good until 2 weeks ago maxpower wrote:

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Good luck
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and good luck came to me via email yesterday from a service tech in ny he told me exactly what my problem was and i fixed it last night and this is what it was the egr valve was stuck open causing the whole problem not fuel not any sensor the egr valve and realy want to thank every one for the help they gave me along the way thanks again maxpower wrote:

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tossing parts at it. A simple vacuum test
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the egr was the last thing i would have though of to be the whole problem with my idle and the stalling and i don't think a vacume test would have pointed that way i would think a vacume test would lead to the cat instead not the egr heated up the intake and caused a vapor lock and caused it to run crummy and stall when hot maxpower wrote:

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