93 Shadow....No codes

hey all, Last week the shadow just died and now has no spark. I have replaced the pick up sensor in the distributor, and also the coil. Still no spark. I did the check engine light code check before on the car years
ago and it worked. Now I cant get the check engine light to come on at all. Could that mean I have a bad computer? Any help would be appreciated. I donít know where to look next and I cant keep throwing parts at it until it works.
Checked all fuses Replaced pick up coil replaced coil next?
Omerta
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pick up sensor on the distributor? never though of that.... gonna check that tomorrow and maybe i can finaly start my own car-with-no-spark.
sorry i can't help you though :(

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If the check engine won't come on at all, as you stated, then the first thing I'd be checking for is a burned-out bulb.
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"Omerta" wrote: > hey all, > Last week the shadow just died and now has no spark. I have > replaced the pick up sensor in the distributor, and also the > coil. Still no spark. I did the check engine light code check > before on the car years ago and it worked. Now I cant get the > check engine light to come on at all. Could that mean I have a > bad computer? Any help would be appreciated. I don't know > where to look next and I cant keep throwing parts at it until > it works. > > Checked all fuses > Replaced pick up coil > replaced coil > next? > > Omerta
Update, I changed the MAP sensor, and the Auto shut down relay today. Still the same. No spark and no check engine light. If anyone has any idea please let me know.
Timing belt ok Distributor is turning changed pick up coil changed coil changed ASD relay changed MAP sensor Next?
Thank you, Omerta
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"Omerta" wrote: > hey all, > Last week the shadow just died and now has no spark. I have > replaced the pick up sensor in the distributor, and also the > coil. Still no spark. I did the check engine light code check > before on the car years ago and it worked. Now I cant get the > check engine light to come on at all. Could that mean I have a > bad computer? Any help would be appreciated. I don't know > where to look next and I cant keep throwing parts at it until > it works. > > Checked all fuses > Replaced pick up coil > replaced coil > next? > > Omerta
Omerta, (or anyone) did you you ever find out what the problem was wih your cr. I have the axact same issue on a 91 Sundance 2.5 L
When I try and check the codes the the ligt doesnít come on and I also replace the pickup, and ignition coil. Thre is no spark ad I donít seem to hear the fuel pump prime whenthe key is turned.
This car was problem free until parked for 3 months, so my first guess was to look fro corroded wiring/comectins but didnít find anything obvious.
Like you I was wondering if it is the computer itself or the ASD relay.
Thanks for any responses
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"puckstopper" wrote: > Omerta, (or anyone) did you you ever find out what the > problem was wih your cr. I have the axact same issue on a 91 > Sundance 2.5 L > > When I try and check the codes the the ligt doesn't come on > and I also replace the pickup, and ignition coil. Thre is no > spark ad I don't seem to hear the fuel pump prime whenthe key > is turned. > > This car was problem free until parked for 3 months, so my > first guess was to look fro corroded wiring/comectins but > didn't find anything obvious. > > Like you I was wondering if it is the computer itself or the > ASD relay. > > Thanks for any responses
Just an update. It was a corroded connection after all. There were two red wires sharing a common connector on the plastic piece the ASD relay plugs into. One of them was broken off due to corrosion. Repaired and finally get a whole bunch of clicks and noises undr the hood when the key turned, codes from the computer and of course it statted as wel.
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wrote:

Turns out it was the hall effect sensor under the distributor cap..
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Yesterday I had a guy get pissed at me because I charged him $89.00 to fix a similar problem. He had replaced the following on his Jeep, Crank sensor $125.00 Cam sensor $85.00 Dis Cap $20.00 Wires $45.00 Plugs $20.00 Pick up in the Dis $110.00 still his Jeep wouldn't run so he bought a $500.00 computer and hung that on his Jeep. After all that still didn't fix his problem, he brought it to me. I have it running fine after about 15 min. This guy is pissed and calling me a rip off after he dumped all that money in to his car when he didn't need to. I charged a half an hour labor and a fuse link. The moral of this story is, Hire a pro. In the long run it's cheaper. I could have saved this guy a ton of money if he would have just brought it ome first. For some reason, people have a preset notion that everone is out to rip them off. I, like so many others depend on earning your trust so that I can make a living. If you want your cars to run, take them and have them fixed. I am reading about all of the guessing and thinking you folks are wasting a ton of money that you don't have to.
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good point gunner..I tell my employees this all the time. your reputation at work and personal life will effect you in ways you don't ever see, but if you get a reputation as a crap mechanic and a rippff, instead of being honest, you will starve.

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"GUNNER" wrote: > Yesterday I had a guy get pissed at me because I charged him > $89.00 to > fix a similar problem. > He had replaced the following on his Jeep, > Crank sensor $125.00 > Cam sensor $85.00 > Dis Cap $20.00 > Wires $45.00 > Plugs $20.00 > Pick up in the Dis $110.00 > still his Jeep wouldn't run so he bought a $500.00 computer > and hung > that on his Jeep. After all that still didn't fix his problem, > he > brought it to me. > I have it running fine after about 15 min. > This guy is pissed and calling me a rip off after he dumped > all that > money in to his car when he didn't need to. > I charged a half an hour labor and a fuse link. > The moral of this story is, > Hire a pro. In the long run it's cheaper. I could have saved > this guy a > ton of money if he would have just brought it ome first. > For some reason, people have a preset notion that everone is > out to rip > them off. I, like so many others depend on earning your trust > so that I > can make a living. > If you want your cars to run, take them and have them fixed. I > am > reading about all of the guessing and thinking you folks are > wasting a > ton of money that you don't have to.
Gunner, I agree your customer was foolish for spending that kind of money guessing, and he should be thankful that you fixed his problem cheaply, honestly and quickly, never mind taking his frustration out on you.
Having the know-how, documentation and the tools to diagnose a problem canít be beat. Some of us though enjoy the satisfaction of fixing our own problems when we can, with a little help from our friends and places like this. In my case I had easy access to free parts of some cars that I kept as parts cars, so I didnít have to spend anything to swap in parts. Iím not crazy enough to spend $1000 + replacing a tranny on a 16 year old car with 250,000 KM, but it pays to keep it around for parts if you have the room.
Since the car was 30 miles from the nearest shop, I managed to save a $90 towing charge, $40-80 for diagnosis, plus the cost of the repair (re-soldering a wire). In this case it was worth it, but obviously not in every case. Keep things reasonable both in the money you throw at guessing, and the job you undertake relative to your skills and willingly pay for help when you need it. If the parts are near their service date anyway like caps, plugs rotors etc (for older cars). there is no harm in replacing them anyway.
As far as dishonest mechanics go, as an ex-mechanic (15 year ago), I have to say most mechanics are honest and the problem is more related to an in-experienced owner explaining a problem they donít understand to an ďservice advisorĒ who translates the problem on a work order to the person who actually tries to fix the problem. A lot gets lost in the translation. Your customer should have turned out as a referral for you but I guess he was an idiot or to embarrassed to admit he screwed up.
Obviously owners donít realize that just because you replace the ignition module or pickup coil last week because the car didnít start has nothing to do with the fact the starter failed out in the paring lot when they went to pick it up. To them the car didnít start either way and they donít have the logical knowledge to figure out they are unrelated. And when it comes to electrical related problems, even the seemingly un-related might be the cause.
Reminds me of one of the strangest work orders I had. Oil leak at the right rear door. Seeing as there was no business having oil any where near there it was kind of strange. It turned out that the power window was dropping too far in that door so an innovate yet misguided mechanic, stuck an old oil filter in the bottom of the door so the window bottomed out on it. Unfortunately he place the filter opening down, so that the oil drained out and caused a leak.
Thatís my 2 cents worth
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