'96 Caravan blower issue

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Going to school at MO Tech and either "knowledge" or "placement" are totally independent occurences in this business (assuming that your puffed up MOTech-going chest has been made so due to an Automotive Technology degree, as they offer others). I don't have the numbers, but I would bet lunch at an expensive establishment that Ranken has graduated/placed more people in automotive service jobs than MO Tech, but that by itself doesn't make them worth a fuck. I know Ranken grads that are totally worthless. Conversely, I know non-grads of *any such* institute that fix cars both ethically and properly for a living (very rare indeed).
So, given your hoity toity credentials, why did you ask --on a newsgroup-- a question about your *own* car's repair?
Toyota MDT in MO
P.S. bow in reverence to those who know virtually everything automotive about virtually everything automotive, instead of being a douchebag. They are spending time here so that you may see the light. Did you give your world class instructors this much flack back at the hallowed halls of MO Tech?
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As I said, "old school". I went over thirty years ago. I'm not "up to date" on the newer electronics and technology in today's vehicles. That's why I ask here about my Intrepid. My old big block B body cars, I can take care of myself without help. The dealership I worked for (over 29 years ago) had their four "favorites" that made all the money, the rest of us got per hour. I left and went into electronics for the Federal Government. I can work on old Mopars, but sometimes I need help with these newer engines and all of their sensors, codes, etc.
Larry
So, given your hoity toity credentials, why did you ask --on a newsgroup-- a question about your *own* car's repair?
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I took that into consideration before replying. It did seem like you were touting your credentials as if they validated your diagnosis of the OP's complaint, so I found the two concepts to be contradictory to one another.

This is where I'm confused. Has the testing of voltage, resistance, and DC motors changed in 30 years? That would be surprising to find out, but I was diagnosing Chutes n' Ladders 30 years ago so anything is possible.

Things haven't changed much RE: favorites.
I left and went into electronics for the Federal Government. I can work on

'Etc' as in resistor blocks? What did the government use to drop current to a DC load?
Toyota MDT in MO

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Exactly.
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It could be the damper door is not opening. When the blower is off the damper will close. If you hear the blower and not getting any air it could be the damper door electric motor.
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The doors have nothing to do with blower motor speed. If you don't have the first 3 speeds and have high, replace the resistor as stated above
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
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2 questions
Should I assume that this is a dealer part?
How easy is this to replace myself?
Thanks.
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On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 01:15:58 +0000, no wrote:

No.
Easy.

Welcome.
--
"Ubuntu" -- an African word, meaning "Slackware is too hard for me".


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Relpaced the resistor Monday afternoon, still seems to be working OK. Thanks all for the advice.
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This is interesting because my 99 Ram VAn blower is doing the same thing. Unless somone says otherwise I'll assume it's fixed the same way. Mine went out in very cold weather also.
snipped-for-privacy@email.com wrote:

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I jumped the gun on this call, apparently. Symptoms have resumed. Is the blower motor next on the list?
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On Fri, 01 Feb 2008 01:40:56 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@email.com wrote:

Yup, that would be next in the logical progression, as was previously mentioned here...
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On Thu, 31 Jan 2008 22:39:59 -0500, daytripper

But also be sure the blower housing isn't getting filled with moisture and "freezing" which will also burn out the resistors - very good idea to leave the vehicle parked with the blower on HIGH, which takes the somewhat fragile resistor pack out of the equation. Not very likely to be a shorted armature either. More likely sticky bearings
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On Mon, 04 Feb 2008 20:57:22 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

Just thought of another "issue". If the air inlet is plugged and the fan is on other than high speed, there is insufficient airflow past the resistor pack to keep it cool, so it is more likely to burn out.
Again, the SAFE way is to ALWAYS start with the fan on high. It does more for your defrost that way anyway, so why not??
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